Off Topic London boat show

The screws are probably steel with a coating to shield against galvanic corrosion (dissimilar metals) or stainless either way with galvanic corrosion the fastener would corrode not the aluminium therefore I would think the dealer is correct and it is a paint issue.
 
Red Hering said:
I saw all of that @bryonfromTilly about the rotting transoms in the new boats on Facebook as well when I was a member of the Lund owners group on Facebook back then,(I signed off facebook awhile back),and I couldn’t get a straight answer from my dealer,if my transom was rotting out as well,because my paint on the transom was starting to “bubble up” on my 2009 18.5 foot Pro-V Lund that I bought brand new.I will post some photo’s of my paint bubbling up on my transom.Just a question @bryonfromTilly to you and other members,would you consider a 2009 Lund boat as a new boat? Thanks in advance for your opinion’s.View attachment 12868View attachment 12869View attachment 12870View attachment 12871View attachment 12872View attachment 12873I am just wondering what year the transoms on the Lund boat’s were starting to rot out.The dealer assured me that it was just the paint oxidizing with the aluminum that would cause the bubbling up of the paint on my transom.The dealer basically just told me to sand down the bubble,and dab it with paint,and all is well. Since I am the original owner of my boat,I have a lifetime warranty on my boat,but in case I do need a new transom,it will be interesting to see if the Lund warranty will cover all of this.I hope that I don’t have to go down that road,and I am hoping like the dealer said,that it is just the paint bubbling up,and fingers crossed!! ??
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I have a 2004 Lund Alaskan 1800. I had to replace the transom --did it last winter in the shop. Not overly difficult but labour intensive..and I have the space and tools to do it properly.
Heres the old transom coming out--I used the ceiling mounted chainfall to remove it in one piece so I had a template for the new transom

12884

It came out in one piece but man was it rotton!!! No fiber-glassing, just wood

12885

I made up the new transom properly with marine grade plywood laminated, glued, screwed, sealed, epoxied, fiber-glassed...
12886


Reinstalled after cleaning up the transom metal, applied sealants, etc

12888


Not a weekend project but its solid now. I have also done floors..same crap wood that went rotten.

I believe Lund used a composite material now in the transoms, but floors are still plywood.
Great boats but the wood used in mine was CRAP.
 
Richardscott999 said:
The screws are probably steel with a coating to shield against galvanic corrosion (dissimilar metals) or stainless either way with galvanic corrosion the fastener would corrode not the aluminium therefore I would think the dealer is correct and it is a paint issue.
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Thanks @Richardscott999 for your time and reply back. Your comment is “music to my ears!!” & it’s not a rotting transom,just as my Lund dealer was telling me as well,and have a great day!! ?:)12889
 
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Have been in Lunds for 36yrs and wouldnt buy anything else in aluminum other than a heavy guage Western style boat. The major cause of the rotten transoms and aluminum issues on the Lund transoms is from the treated plywood and moisture causing a chemical reaction with the aluminum and basically eating its self from the inside! Lund solved the issue in 2017 when the larger boats in the lineup went to composit transoms and switched the entire lineup except the little tiny's in 2018.
 
F Kempf said:
Just got back from the London Boat show. Can't afford a $50,000 Lund so I will be content to fish with my trusted Proline for another season.
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My Proline Sport center console is constructed entirely with composite materials. No wooden stringers or transom to worry about.?
 
DaveJ said:
I have a 2004 Lund Alaskan 1800. I had to replace the transom --did it last winter in the shop. Not overly difficult but labour intensive..and I have the space and tools to do it properly.
Heres the old transom coming out--I used the ceiling mounted chainfall to remove it in one piece so I had a template for the new transom

View attachment 12884

It came out in one piece but man was it rotton!!! No fiber-glassing, just wood

View attachment 12885

I made up the new transom properly with marine grade plywood laminated, glued, screwed, sealed, epoxied, fiber-glassed...
View attachment 12886


Reinstalled after cleaning up the transom metal, applied sealants, etc

View attachment 12888


Not a weekend project but its solid now. I have also done floors..same crap wood that went rotten.

I believe Lund used a composite material now in the transoms, but floors are still plywood.
Great boats but the wood used in mine was CRAP.
Click to expand...
Yikes!! @DaveJ That is a big job,and it is too bad that you were stuck having to this terrible repair job!! Apparently from some of the input from other sites that I have been reading,and comments,since 2017 Lund has changed the material used for the transom,so,for what I am guessing,what make and model of a Lund below 2017 have a rotten transoms in them? I am still waiting to get a reply back from my dealer about my boat,if there is or there will be a issue later,due to a rotten transom,all the best.
 
Red Hering said:
Yikes!! @DaveJ That is a big job,and it is too bad that you were stuck having to this terrible repair job!! Apparently from some of the input from other sites that I have been reading,and comments,since 2017 Lund has changed the material used for the transom,so,for what I am guessing,what make and model of a Lund below 2017 have a rotten transoms in them? I am still waiting to get a reply back from my dealer about my boat,if there is or there will be a issue later,due to a rotten transom,all the best.
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It was a big job, but not complicated..Ive done them before. Just the right tools and space. Wood is OK if you do it right--right wood, right gluing, right epoxy and fiberglass lamination. The new transom will last longer than I will. The new composites are the best but expensive. I would want a new boat to have it for sure. I think after around 2008?? Lund guarantees the transoms but who knows how reliable that is. If your 2009 needs a new transom, its around $4-5,000 to have it done...OR...give me a call and I can walk you through it
 
DaveJ said:
It was a big job, but not complicated..Ive done them before. Just the right tools and space. Wood is OK if you do it right--right wood, right gluing, right epoxy and fiberglass lamination. The new transom will last longer than I will. The new composites are the best but expensive. I would want a new boat to have it for sure. I think after around 2008?? Lund guarantees the transoms but who knows how reliable that is. If your 2009 needs a new transom, its around $4-5,000 to have it done...OR...give me a call and I can walk you through it
Click to expand...
@DaveJ since I am the original owner of my Lund,it is therefore still under the Lund warranty.I will contact the Lund dealer first just in case I do need to replace my transom,and again I appreciate your help.?Personally,I think that my transom is fine,and it’s just the paint bubbling from the oxidation of the aluminum against the paint,as mentioned earlier from one of my earlier photo’s and post’s.I will keep your contact name just in case I do need to get a hold of you for your help & thanks again & all the best,@DaveJ ?:)
 
I honestly wouldn't be to worried about it! there is a small percentage of boats that have the problem. There are a few ways to find out if you have an issue. raise the motor so its just at the point where you can reach down and do a "power lift" on the skeg pulling up on the motor while watching the transom area (works well with 2 people!). You will physically be able to see the motor mount rocking on the transom! Another is to try turning the screws in the top cap plate and see if any are "stripped". The other you need a mirror (mechanics mirror works great) and a flash light...from the access port in the splash well put the mirror down on the bottom of the hull so you look down and reflect back up into the actual plywood. You can also physically reach it and feel it or take an awl or pic and see if its at all soft.

Hope this helps...Ryan
 
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