So I have an outboard that hasn't ran for 10 years . Guessing it will need a carb kit and possibly seals . That aside , I want to know from anyone who's had success with this . I've been told before , if you want to try turning a dormant motor over , to add some form of lubricant in the cylinders , let it sit for a while and then try to turn it over . But , I'm wondering what lube is best ( it's a 70hp. Evinrude 2 stroke ). I've herd several thoughts , but I just like to hear from either your thoughts , if what you tried worked . And yes the motor was fogged , but I'm sure that would have little affect now . So 2stroke oil , 3 in 1 oil , WD 40 ( think that stuff is dicey ), a seafoam product or Lucas product , how much add into the cylinder ? How long do you let it sit before trying . There is this new stuff at TSC called Mechanic in a bottle , that says it will renew seal life and a bunch of other stuff which may or may not be a sales pitch . Any experience with that stuff ? Was thinking of going up today to grab something . Just not sure what . And I'm guessing this is a one shot deal , so would it just be better served having somebody taking the head off and quoting a price ?
Your thoughts
- Thread starter Magnum 3
- Start date
Thanks . Kinda with you on that , But I'm hoping someone who's done this once or twice answers yet .
Yakfisherman
Well-Known Member
There’s a ton of step by step videos on YouTube, for reviving old outboard , then you can see it done and watch multiple videos
Just Chillin
Active Member
As long as there is some lube for the rings the first couple of strokes you're good. biggest issue is dirty carbs. I have a 68 Johnson 50hp. It will run forever. lol
(If it's not seized) mix some fuel,heavy oil to gas ratio..if it calls for 50:1 mix it at 25:1.
pump that in the cylinders from the main gas line. Prime the bulb then crank the the throttle a few time to get the carb spraying fuel into the reed block. Take the plug wires off and crank the motor a few times. Cranking the motor will pull the fuel into the cylinders then let that soak. Or take the plugs out and pour some of that mix directly into the cylinders and let soak. It will be smoky when you do go to fire it up but that just tell you there is a lot of oil in the mix doing what you want it to do.
Run new spark plugs before you do anything. New hot( set to proper gap) plugs will ignite almost any mix.
I would just make the haevy oil to gas mix (like 5liters)and hook it to main line,prime the line crank the throttle a few times to saturate everything on the inside with the heavy mix and then try to fire it up. No soak.. If it do fire up just let it idle and smoke and lube everything up for a bit..then run the proper mix fuel ratio for the motor.
pump that in the cylinders from the main gas line. Prime the bulb then crank the the throttle a few time to get the carb spraying fuel into the reed block. Take the plug wires off and crank the motor a few times. Cranking the motor will pull the fuel into the cylinders then let that soak. Or take the plugs out and pour some of that mix directly into the cylinders and let soak. It will be smoky when you do go to fire it up but that just tell you there is a lot of oil in the mix doing what you want it to do.
Run new spark plugs before you do anything. New hot( set to proper gap) plugs will ignite almost any mix.
I would just make the haevy oil to gas mix (like 5liters)and hook it to main line,prime the line crank the throttle a few times to saturate everything on the inside with the heavy mix and then try to fire it up. No soak.. If it do fire up just let it idle and smoke and lube everything up for a bit..then run the proper mix fuel ratio for the motor.
Dmanwithnoname
Well-Known Member
Engine turns over right?
If it was properly stored, just put fresh fuel and see if she'll run. If you wanted to squirt some tcw3 in the cylinders I think should be plenty good enough. Carbs likely need work, but aside from the chance of not starting you're not going to hurt anything.
Replace lower unit oil too, but not really necessary to just run in the driveway in a pail. Make sure water pump works too and plan for that.
Replace lower unit oil too, but not really necessary to just run in the driveway in a pail. Make sure water pump works too and plan for that.
Impeller, new plugs, check fuel filter, check/replace fuel lines if necessary and a carb clean won't hurt. Then a little 2 stroke oil in the cylinders and turn it over over a couple times without gas. Then hook up you mix and see if she'll run. A little carb cleaner or starting fluid sprayed into the intake may help it fire up. Good luck!
Josh
Josh
Haven't tried it . Worried about scoring the cylinders , so I had thought of squirting some seafoam or something in the cylinders , letting it sit for a day or 2 and with the plugs out and coil unhooked try either pull staring a couple times or turn it over with the battery , for a couple seconds .
Magnum3, when I ran into this type of situation in the past, I would introduce some diesel into the cylinders and leave it for a few days...maybe an ounce, not much more then that. Had good success with this method. If cylinders are not seized, then slowly and easily rotate the fly wheel back and forth just a little to be sure rings are free and moves smooth. If seized, then all bets are off...it needs to come apart. Don't turn it over with the battery because if the rings are stuck to the walls, you will break them and now you will be taking it apart.
Just be careful what you read on the internet as there are some rather bazar remedies out there.
Just be careful what you read on the internet as there are some rather bazar remedies out there.
Only hang up I may have is the plugs face the bow . So would this mean these pistons are running horizontally , although possible , sound kinda weird . So then I'm adding whatever I use to only one section ( bottom of the cylinder . Not a mechanic .Think I'm gonna look for a blowup picture of this motor.Magnum3, when I ran into this type of situation in the past, I would introduce some diesel into the cylinders and leave it for a few days...maybe an ounce, not much more then that. Had good success with this method. If cylinders are not seized, then slowly and easily rotate the fly wheel back and forth just a little to be sure rings are free and moves smooth. If seized, then all bets are off...it needs to come apart. Don't turn it over with the battery because if the rings are stuck to the walls, you will break them and now you will be taking it apart.
Just be careful what you read on the internet as there are some rather bazar remedies out there.
mesomikenduck
Well-Known Member
I just went through this on the boat I bought last year. The motor is an 86 110 Evinrude V4. The guy I bought the boat from said it sat for two years...Could have been more.
After having a short but helpful chat from Randy at Posts, telling him about two plugs being fouled, it sat for a while ETC...I did the following;
I changed out the water pump, installed new thermostats, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs, changed the oil in the bottom end and replaced all the gas lines.
This motor has the VRO and the motor was a little fouled up so I plugged off the oil inject and now just run premix to eliminate a fuel mixing issue. I had heard these fail without warning so I would rather premix than have to rebuild a motor. I also cleaned the fuel tank out but I did this when I redid the floor and interior of the boat, my tank is an inboard aluminum tank.
I found pretty much all of the instructional videos I needed on how to do everything on the web by watching different You Tube videos and reading different forums from along the Great Lakes. So much free resources out there if you look hard enough. This site is always my go to first though lol.
After having a short but helpful chat from Randy at Posts, telling him about two plugs being fouled, it sat for a while ETC...I did the following;
I changed out the water pump, installed new thermostats, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs, changed the oil in the bottom end and replaced all the gas lines.
This motor has the VRO and the motor was a little fouled up so I plugged off the oil inject and now just run premix to eliminate a fuel mixing issue. I had heard these fail without warning so I would rather premix than have to rebuild a motor. I also cleaned the fuel tank out but I did this when I redid the floor and interior of the boat, my tank is an inboard aluminum tank.
I found pretty much all of the instructional videos I needed on how to do everything on the web by watching different You Tube videos and reading different forums from along the Great Lakes. So much free resources out there if you look hard enough. This site is always my go to first though lol.
Dmanwithnoname
Well-Known Member
Diesel does work good, also as mentioned 2 stroke oil.
Personally when I run into this I tend to use automatic transmission fluid, the detergents in automatic transmission have great emulsion properties that will get past the rust. Diesel would be my 2nd choice.
Personally when I run into this I tend to use automatic transmission fluid, the detergents in automatic transmission have great emulsion properties that will get past the rust. Diesel would be my 2nd choice.