Kicker help

L

live2fish

Well-Known Member
I’m about to get my kicker (finally), but one thing I thought of that’s definitely a concern. I don’t remember if I’ve asked this before on the board.

My main motor has all the electronics hooked to it. With a kicker on its own battery how do you guys stop the main from draining while trolling 8-10hrs ? I was thinking of a battery selector switch to charge both bats simultaneously? Or do most ppl just start up the main motor for 5 min every once in a while to charge it? The dealership suggested wiring both in parallel but I was concerned the doubled amps may cause issues? Has anyone used Hully Gully before?
 
live2fish said:
I’m about to get my kicker (finally), but one thing I thought of that’s definitely a concern. I don’t remember if I’ve asked this before on the board.

My main motor has all the electronics hooked to it. With a kicker on its own battery how do you guys stop the main from draining while trolling 8-10hrs ? I was thinking of a battery selector switch to charge both bats simultaneously? Or do most ppl just start up the main motor for 5 min every once in a while to charge it? The dealership suggested wiring both in parallel but I was concerned the doubled amps may cause issues? Has anyone used Hully Gully before? @live2fish I have used Hully Gully before,👎 and may I suggest @Xtreme marine in Nilestown,east of London instead. 👍🙂
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
live2fish said:
I’m about to get my kicker (finally), but one thing I thought of that’s definitely a concern. I don’t remember if I’ve asked this before on the board.

My main motor has all the electronics hooked to it. With a kicker on its own battery how do you guys stop the main from draining while trolling 8-10hrs ? I was thinking of a battery selector switch to charge both bats simultaneously? Or do most ppl just start up the main motor for 5 min every once in a while to charge it? The dealership suggested wiring both in parallel but I was concerned the doubled amps may cause issues? Has anyone used Hully Gully before?
Click to expand...
I just fire up main for a bit if amps on finder drop to much
 
Alby said:
I just fire up main for a bit if amps on finder drop to much
Click to expand...
This may be the easier cheaper route then. Thank you everyone for replies. What’s everyone’s experience with energy power sports in Oakville? And the power garage in Woodstock?
 
Wildfire said:
One of these:
View attachment 83836

www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Systems-Selector-Battery/dp/B000K2MCR2/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1Y5IJFNVHV824&keywords=battery%2Bswitch&qid=1706234312&sprefix=battery%2Bswitch%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-10&th=1

Main bat on bat 1 and kicker bat on bat 2. Connect kicker to the switched pole and leave it on 2. If the electronics drain bat 1 switch the kicker to bat 1 and let it charge that one. That's what I do.
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You never use 1+2 while trolling then just switch to 1 when not ?
 
Wildfire said:
One of these:
View attachment 83836

www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Systems-Selector-Battery/dp/B000K2MCR2/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1Y5IJFNVHV824&keywords=battery%2Bswitch&qid=1706234312&sprefix=battery%2Bswitch%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-10&th=1

Main bat on bat 1 and kicker bat on bat 2. Connect kicker to the switched pole and leave it on 2. If the electronics drain bat 1 switch the kicker to bat 1 and let it charge that one. That's what I do.
Click to expand...
One last ? My kicker will have Agm battery and the main is sla. Will this be an issue at all with it on 1+2?
 
live2fish said:
One last ? My kicker will have Agm battery and the main is sla. Will this be an issue at all with it on 1+2?
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My main and kicker battery are identical, which is ideal so I've never had a problem. Honestly even if they're not I still can't really see there being a problem. They're both 12v and a depleted battery at 11.5 isn't really going to charge from a full battery at 12.5.
live2fish said:
You never use 1+2 while trolling then just switch to 1 when not ?
Click to expand...
I've never really had a issue with the main going dead during a day of trolling to be honest. That's running the Helix 9 all day plus the radio and sometimes even the livewell!

I don't think any of this is truly necessary. A fishfinder would take days to drain a starting battery, not in an 8 hour trolling session. I do agree that having a backup method is smart, but even some jumper cables in the hatch would work.
 
If I may add, never switch a battery selector from one position to another while under power.
 
GPS said:
If I may add, never switch a battery selector from one position to another while under power.
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You can from 1 - 1+2 - 2. These are designed so your leads are always in contact with one of the batteries.

Yea switching to off can destroy the rectifier in the alternator.
 
live2fish said:
I’m about to get my kicker (finally), but one thing I thought of that’s definitely a concern. I don’t remember if I’ve asked this before on the board.

My main motor has all the electronics hooked to it. With a kicker on its own battery how do you guys stop the main from draining while trolling 8-10hrs ? I was thinking of a battery selector switch to charge both bats simultaneously? Or do most ppl just start up the main motor for 5 min every once in a while to charge it? The dealership suggested wiring both in parallel but I was concerned the doubled amps may cause issues? Has anyone used Hully Gully before?
Click to expand...
I have a switch but don't connect the motors to the switch. I connect my main motor directly to battery 1 and the kicker connected directly to battery 2. That way I can have switch in the off position ( so no accessory work or can drain the batteries when the boat is parked) but still start the motors and use the power trim in the driveway. I then connected all of the accessories to a separate "Power Posts" like the link below . One for the positive and one for the negative. Both battery grounds also go the negative power post. The positive terminal from the switch is connected to the positive power post.

With this setup all of the accessories can be run off both batteries. On the run out to the fishing grounds I have the switch set to 1+2 and the main motor charges both batteries. Once I am set up I switch to Bat 2 and all of the accessories run off that battery and the alternator from the kicker. Battery 1 has no drain at all and will always be at 100% charge. If Battery 2 dies, just switch to bat 1 and you are good to go. On the run back to shore I switch to 1+2 and charge both batteries again. When I get to shore I switch the selector off and batteries can drain. Works like a charm.
 
done working said:
I have a switch but don't connect the motors to the switch. I connect my main motor directly to battery 1 and the kicker connected directly to battery 2. That way I can have switch in the off position ( so no accessory work or can drain the batteries when the boat is parked) but still start the motors and use the power trim in the driveway. I then connected all of the accessories to a separate "Power Posts" like the link below . One for the positive and one for the negative. Both battery grounds also go the negative power post. The positive terminal from the switch is connected to the positive power post.

With this setup all of the accessories can be run off both batteries. On the run out to the fishing grounds I have the switch set to 1+2 and the main motor charges both batteries. Once I am set up I switch to Bat 2 and all of the accessories run off that battery and the alternator from the kicker. Battery 1 has no drain at all and will always be at 100% charge. If Battery 2 dies, just switch to bat 1 and you are good to go. On the run back to shore I switch to 1+2 and charge both batteries again. When I get to shore I switch the selector off and batteries can drain. Works like a charm.
Click to expand...


I like the sounds of this. But my suphawk bilge is crowded so I’m thinking I might not have enough space to do the switch like I want. I got a washdown pump taking lots of space. Not sure if the techs can find a goood spot for the switch and the power posts. I really gotta figure this out now damn. Also my fish hawk ducer cable loooks like it’s gonna need to be routed through bilge after it’s put on starboard side. This is a pain in ass. Wish I got kicker when I first bought boat.


Ducer cable.
 

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Gotta try and move this before I take boat in for kicker install. And the one pics the starboard battery compartment that has a rigger cable going through a tiny hole that also needs to be enlarged. Surprised crestliner only made a tiny hole. I don’t think my hawk ducer will fit near the others so I’ll need another board. Called AO and they only have very large ones in.
 

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A battery switch works as well but relies on you to select when to charge one or both batteries.
 

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