cracked block :/

Rheal

Well-Known Member
R.O.C. (Radio Operator's Certificate)
I have never tried Devcon ,but it sounds awesome...I have used JB weld on a cracked block and got lucky and got another 50,000 is. Prep is HUGE as mentioned by an experienced welder...PS I am a U A 67 welder....tried welding a block before....dont do it. Fix and flip bites....best advice. Buy a new one
 

proV2025

Well-Known Member
Minnownite, I have two tubs of the Belzona product. It is an industrial strength metal epoxy, can withstand the high temps of an engine block, is machinable, etc...etc.. We used it in industry as a fill product between wear plates where three ton coils up to four tons and 800 degrees F. would slide along the plates, every three or four minutes, 24 hours a day. The epoxy metal fill would last up to a year before requiring reapplication. You are welcome to use what you need for your repair without cost except for gas as I live in Hamilton. Send me a personal message if interested. I also have a home machine shop and can tig weld that block if it is aluminum.
 

Minnownite

Well-Known Member
I've been in contact with Mick @ kraushaar machine shop in Tillsonburg. I would be able to get a brand new short block for $1200 plus shipping. Install new bearings. Old pistons with new rings. new gaskets. Should be under $2000 and a full new engine! So i'm currently exploring that avenue. Thanks for all the advice guys! I'll keep your offer in mind @proV2025
 

Minnownite

Well-Known Member
What i ended up doing is going JB weld. hopefully it holds for a few years when i can afford to replace the engine. i ended up drilling the cracks and V grooving the crack. i did 3 applications of JB weld. Put the engine on a engine stand so i can work on a level surface. first 2 applications were light and forced into the crack. The 3rd application was heavy with drywall tape mesh. All put back together and almost installed. Just gotta wait for spring to see how it turned out.
 

Attachments

fish hawk

Well-Known Member
What i ended up doing is going JB weld. hopefully it holds for a few years when i can afford to replace the engine. i ended up drilling the cracks and V grooving the crack. i did 3 applications of JB weld. Put the engine on a engine stand so i can work on a level surface. first 2 applications were light and forced into the crack. The 3rd application was heavy with drywall tape mesh. All put back together and almost installed. Just gotta wait for spring to see how it turned out.
Good Luck !!
 

Rjohn

Well-Known Member
I jb welded an old Chrysler v6 in a Neptune I had crack that was bad multiple spots just prepped like you did almost like you were gonna weld it multiple applications smoothed and painted lol lasted a long time good luck with yours.
 

Ihuntcanada

Well-Known Member
Hey @Minnownite Brock's Machine Shop in Teeterville specializes in engines (block rebuilds, crank shaft grinding etc) He may be able to help you if you're looking for an Engine re builder. Or he may know/ have a used block for that motor.
 

WinSX3Tom

Well-Known Member
Hey @Minnownite Brock's Machine Shop in Teeterville specializes in engines (block rebuilds, crank shaft grinding etc) He may be able to help you if you're looking for an Engine re builder. Or he may know/ have a used block for that motor.
His back log is huge especially late winter to early spring. Took a long time to get some heads for my IH Scout II back, but he does some damn good quality work!
 

Minnownite

Well-Known Member
So got it all back together and trying to set the timing now. I followed oem specs. cyl 1 tdc. rotor pointing toward cyl 1. but wont fire. got spark. got fuel. Going to get a new cap and rotor today. Any idea what i'm missing?
 

Twister

Well-Known Member
So got it all back together and trying to set the timing now. I followed oem specs. cyl 1 tdc. rotor pointing toward cyl 1. but wont fire. got spark. got fuel. Going to get a new cap and rotor today. Any idea what i'm missing?
Maybe 180 degees out. #1 cylinder piston should be at top dead center with timing mark at tdc. Either pull #1 plug and stick a wire in to feel piston or remove valve cover and check that both #1 valves are closed. The distributor runs at 1/2 crank speed so Timing mark goes around twice. once the mark is right and once its 180 degrees out
 
Last edited:

Minnownite

Well-Known Member
Maybe 180 degees out. #1 cylinder piston should be at top dead center. Either pull #1 plug and stick a wire in to feel piston or remove valve cover and check that both valves are closed
I can physicallly see inside the spark plug hole to see the cyl. also i held my finger over the hole to make sure i was on compression stroke. But i guess couldnt hurt to try turning it 180
 

tazmania

Well-Known Member
First thought would be is distributor out 180.
I scratched my head for a couple days on a rebuild many years ago.
Keep us posted
 

Minnownite

Well-Known Member
Gotter going! New cap and rotor. Moved distributor in the proper place (cyl 1 on the distributor. Not engine) not my brightest moment. All I needed was to hear it run. Now to get a timing light and finish the job.

But then built this! Should be good for running on land. Much better than muffs
 

Attachments

Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks