boat repair

misty river

Well-Known Member
R.O.C. (Radio Operator's Certificate)
I need to replace the flooring and decking in my 16ft Alum boat and I was wondering if anyone can recommend someone to do the work

I am buying a new boat in the spring and I am handing down "ol misty" to my son , but first I want to repair a few things

thanks
 

jammer

Well-Known Member
R.O.C. (Radio Operator's Certificate)
Nobody touches my boat except the fella's at Proctor Marine in Simcoe...
 

Thumperrr

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a good winter project,why not have your son take it on,save some money and he'll have a better appreciation of the boat after he's put some hours in it ,fixing it up.Just my 0.02 worth
 

misty river

Well-Known Member
R.O.C. (Radio Operator's Certificate)
that is an option thats for sure
can you buy marine grade plywood at any lumber yard ?
 

onmedic

Well-Known Member
from what i've been reading, just buy pressure treated and roll on an epoxy to seal it, then vinyl and screw it down. Will last a long time this way from what i'm hearing, doing mine shortly. Got the bunks done on trailor now just have to replace floor before June!
 

andrewm

Well-Known Member
Not even sure I'd bother with the epoxy - just a few coats of tremclad would be enough. If you really want it to last, buy regular exterior grade ply (not pressure treated) and fiberglass it. Really don't even need the cloth; just thin down the resin considerably with acetone and roll it on. Do this outside though as it REALLY stinks!
 
Here is a web site that you may find helpful?? Hope it helps.

http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/houseboat-building-or-repair-what-plywood-exterior-or-marine-grade.html

Have a GREAT DAY!!

Have a GREAT Day!!
 

roland

Member
no one uses marine plywood I replaced the transom in my boat 2 years ago and proctor marine told me that ordinary plywood will last about 15 years so no one uses marine plywood
 

fishstalker

Well-Known Member
I read in one forum that using presure treated has an adverse effect on aluminum. The chemicals react with aluminum and oxidize, weakening it. I'd use outdoor grade or marine ply.
 

ch312

Well-Known Member
quote:
Originally posted by roland

no one uses marine plywood I replaced the transom in my boat 2 years ago and proctor marine told me that ordinary plywood will last about 15 years so no one uses marine plywood



or you could do it the proper way and use marine ply. pressure treated is fine for the "well, thats good enough" people where marine ply is for the "i dont mind spending a bit more on a superior material that will last much longer" type.

if you're going to take the time to replace a floor you might as well do it properly...
 
Pressure-treated plywood, often called "Wolmanized" or P.T. plywood, is NOT " Marine grade" plywood, and those designations do not make the two products arbitrarily interchangeable.
Pressure treated plywood is common plywood that has been subjected to pressure treatment with chemicals to prevent the wood from decaying, or rotting. To some degree, it also discourages insect damage because of the chemicals involved . Pressure treated plywood, however, is not suitable for marine use. The treatment of plywood with copper and arsenic compounds under pressure simply does not make the plywood waterproof, and worse, continuous exposure to water will leach the preservative chemicals from the pressure-treated wood.
Again, pressure treated plywood is ordinary, interior-grade plywood that has been chemically-treated, and it is often made with softer woods to enable the penetration of the wood treating chemicals, with no special care effected to eliminate all gaps or voids.

Exterior grade plywood is made with water-resistant glue, but the exterior shell is the only layer that is made void-free. There may be gaps, voids and the resulting points of weakness in the interior layers. When you cut a sheet of exterior grade plywood, you may expose a gap on the cut surface.

Marine grade plywood, on the other hand, is a different creature. Marine grade plywood is assembled gap and void-free in all layers, and laminated together with special, water-proof glue that holds the various layers together. When immersed, water has absolutely no effect on the glue or the strength of the lamination of marine grade plywood. Marine grade plywood will not commonly delaminate, bubble, buckle, or warp. Upon cutting marine grade plywood, no voids will be discovered on the cut edges. It is also usually constructed of harder woods such as Douglas Fir, or Western Larch.
Marine grade is a superior grade of plywood, and a substantially better product.



Have a GREAT Day!!
 

zamboniwaterboy

Well-Known Member
Marine grade is the only way to go! Still coat it with a good high end epoxy. Plywood can be bought at http://www.noahsmarine.com/html/c.html. Check out some of the new composites available too, http://www.compositescanada.com/function.php?categoryid=345. When you have the floor out it would be a good time to fill the hull with water, check for leaks, and repair using 3m marine silicon, and closed/self sealing rivets. Use good quality stainless screws. A tool like the sonicrafter may prove useful...http://www.thetoolstore.ca/view.asp?Rockwell-Sonicrafter-20-pc-Multimaster-Kit-RK5100K_5741. Research! Research! It will be very rewarding, take your time and do it right!

Michael
 

wendel

Member
I had my boat fixed @ J and J. Did a good job, but don't expect it back anytime soon lol.
Jim works outside, he didn't have a garage at the time so he was rained out many days, taking the repair much longer.
Solid job he did though, was pleased with the work when it was completed.
 

F7Firecat

Active Member
Just a word of advice, having used thousands of gallons of fiberglass resin.

Honestly never ever thin a fiber glass resin with acetone, acetone is not a thinner for fiberglass resins it is good for cleaning brushes or rollers but not a thinner. Most fiberglass resins have nice viscosity and dont ever need to be thinned. They will get thick if cold but getting it warmed up will bring back the workability.

Im very surprised that fiberglass resin thinned with acetone even went hard, at most it probably tacked up once the acetone flashed off. If it did go hard I can guarantee it did not cure anywhere to its full potential.


Bryan
 
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