Off Topic Long point drinking water sand point ?

[fireram]

Good day, For those here that have a place on the point, wondering if you can tell me what you do for water, if its not right from the channel?
Recently had to move the sand point, twice, ended up with high iron content water. Tried a filter, but it works marginally.
Wondering if anyone with good water from a sand point can tell me how deep they went with it?

Thanks muchly.

 

[Old Cut LongPointer]

Hitting iron seems to be a common problem down on The Point and so most people have potable water(treated) trucked in for personal consumption and use channel water for lawn watering, car/boat washing, etc.. We tried a separate system use where toilets ran off channel water and sinks had fresh but found a biofilm (slime) build up caused issues with the internal parts of the water closet. I have no doubt that there are water treatment systems for home/cottage use but they could be pricey ?

 

[fireram]

Thanks Old Cut,
We use water cooler bottles for the drinking and cooking, but just installed new shower and shitter, so was hoping to keep the iron stains away for a while,, CLR works good, citric acid works great. We added a back washable iron filter, a couple $$$ there, and will hook up a new hot water tank in the spring. The biggest problem was the hot water tank. It has a strong sulfur smell after it sits for a couple weeks, apparently from iron reducing bacteria. Hard to get rid of once established, but a regular flush with peroxide is supposed to keep it to a minimum.
I guess best solution would be just get down there and use it more often. Time to retire,, lol...

 

[Octavius Brine]

My uncle is up North but he has the same problem with the sulfur egg smell in the hot water due to iron in the water despite iron filter etc. Apparently the anode in your tank is part of the equation in causing the smell by providing sulfur, so they pull the anodes out and it makes a big difference. But then the tanks don't last. And you can try to crank the temperature way up as well in the hopes of it being too hot for the bacteria, but then you'll want a mixing valve to prevent burns.

They do make a special anode for exactly this problem:

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Keeping your water heater running efficiently is important for extending its lifespan and ensuring you have clean, high-quality water for years to come. Thats why, we, at Corro-Protec, have created the most versatile and efficient titanium anode rods on the market today. Our products give you...

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Might be worth a go. I'd probably pull the anode, crank the temperature up to full power and see if that helps at all. And if it is satisfactory, then spend the $200 for a powered anode (FYI I have no experience with those but they seem promising... maybe others have tried them and know more!).

I realize that doesn't answer the sand point question, but if you can't avoid the iron, it might help you deal with it without adding tons of treatment equipment.

 

[Old Cut LongPointer]

I live on a farm now and blessed with a well that is on an underground stream and fresh as it is I still get a little funky smell when I use the hot water first thing in the morning. My system was installed by Stengel Pumps&Wells and just uses a filter/UV lamp/salt softener to treat it. The salt keeps the calcium out. Also Norfolk County Health Dept. has test bottles available for E. coli/Total coliform for your water.

 

[Landlocked]

We had the same issue with the sulfur smell and added the powered anode that Octavius mentioned, solved the problem! Also a UV system is great peace of mind.

 

[Choppycs]

We had a Sandpoint it was down 13 ft, run water through carbon filter and uv light. Water quality was good no rust or calcium and we did a test at least 1 or 2 times a year and was always good. Firearm you can pm me your number and I will call you.

 

[Choppycs]

Firearm I forgot to mention we were on Pickeral street.

 

[Bugzy]

@firearm I’m not on the point but we do have hard well water at our place. Went about 3 years struggling to battle iron stains and some other issues that resembled iron problems. We tested, adjusted our softener, pre-filter, UV lamp and brought companies out to check. It got pretty bad and all of a sudden the egg smell took over.

I had another company come out after some Water sampling and sold me that it was my softener. I wasn’t thrilled but if a couple $K solved our issue, it was a pill I was willing to swallow. The wife was getting quite upset with the quality of our water. As I was stewing the night I signed the contract, I started to look at my water heater and checked the sacrificial anode. It was non-existent as it was corroded so bad and the water had been eating the water heater for some time. Drained the tank (water was full of iron) and put a new tank in. It was an instant change and we’re going 18 months without any iron issues anywhere. 1000% it was our water heater.

Cancelled the new softener and only cost me $600 (electric tank) and some elbow grease.

Who knows if that works for you, but definetly check the anode. I’ll replace the sacrificial anode on a yearly basis to ensure this never happens to us again.

 

[jumbos]

I have put quite a few points in here on the farm. Depth of the point is in direct relation to the depth of the clay line. Here the clay starts at about 29ft. So I put the point down to about 28ft. I am guessing at long point the clay is quite a bit higher than that. My guess would be about 10-12ft. The only other option is to get a pro well digger in and go down below the rock, with a deep well, of course you will get into a sulfur well and will need a water softener to try and cover up the taste and smell of the water

 

[Three Bouys]

I’ve just replaced my sand point 1 yr ago after being down for approx 18 yrs and it was only down 9’ and water was good for drinking. This time I went down approx 12-14’ right beside the old one until I hit a hard pan and stopped. My water test came back 0 and 0. My water system is simple and it runs through a sediment filter then to a water softner which has magnesium for iron removal. My other sand point which is on the same vein farther away and a little deeper has some iron which I don’t care cause it’s used for watering the lawn, cleaning fish and ducks.

 

[going on line]

I have put quite a few points in here on the farm. Depth of the point is in direct relation to the depth of the clay line. Here the clay starts at about 29ft. So I put the point down to about 28ft. I am guessing at long point the clay is quite a bit higher than that. My guess would be about 10-12ft. The only other option is to get a pro well digger in and go down below the rock, with a deep well, of course you will get into a sulfur well and will need a water softener to try and cover up the taste and smell of the water

Keep in mind You do not always get into sulfur water in bedrock . Best to consult a well driller familiar with the area. They can access any well log information for the area.......
Agree with Jumbo's on the clay layer being higher on the point.
Sulphur can be removed with aeration and filtration , I have a neighbor who uses chemical treatment ( not my preferred).
Maybe look into the water system at the end of Willow Ave behind Udder Cool? Just a thought.
Good Luck!

 

[fireram]

Thanks very much for all the replies.
Pretty much confirms the hot water tank was the stinker,, Same issue as @Bugzy,, We will put in the new one for spring, and will look into changing the anode to the electronic one @Octavius Brine and @Landlocked mentioned.
The current point is only down about 8', but the backwashing filter uses alot of water to flush itself, and I think it sucks the point dry. So we will have to push it down further. Thanks @Three Bouys and @Choppycs for the depths, Ill go down till it hits something hard, or stop around 14', was just worried the iron would get worse as i went deeper, but thats prob not the case
Gonna be a spring job now,,

 

[Darryl]

I had a driller on First Ave to install geothermal heating, the first clay pan is at 25’ and second at 50’ and bedrock is 300’

 

[Shank]

Hey. At our farm we had horrible iron and an ron bacteria problem with everything turning red. Put in a high end softener and backwashable iron filter which did "ok", but I wanted perfection. The game changer was to install a hydrogen peroxide injector on the incoming water and then a large holding tank (maybe a 150 or 200 litre tank) right after the injector to allow the peroxide to mix with water before hitting the iron filter. When we sold, the next owner was super impressed with our system and perfect water. Would definitely be adding a UV lamp to your needs as well.

 

[fireram]

I am going to add UV light, have one at the house, but the iron has to be cleared up first, otherwise it coats the quartz sleeve and prevents the ultraviolet light from contacting the water as it passes by.
Or I clean it every month.
We’re ok with bringing drinking water. It’s just the staining of the new shower fixtures I’m trying to avoid. A quick spray with citric acid cleans em up tho, if I stay on top of it. Will look into an injection system, also have one of those at my house for sulphur that just injects air. Works perfect.
I would think if you used a peroxide injection system that would eliminate the need for a UV light.

If I could move down full time, perfect water would be the priority, after a boathouse re build lol.

 

[Shank]

I am going to add UV light, have one at the house, but the iron has to be cleared up first, otherwise it coats the quartz sleeve and prevents the ultraviolet light from contacting the water as it passes by.
Or I clean it every month.
We’re ok with bringing drinking water. It’s just the staining of the new shower fixtures I’m trying to avoid. A quick spray with citric acid cleans em up tho, if I stay on top of it. Will look into an injection system, also have one of those at my house for sulphur that just injects air. Works perfect.
I would think if you used a peroxide injection system that would eliminate the need for a UV light.

If I could move down full time, perfect water would be the priority, after a boathouse re build lol.

In theory, the peroxide could negate the need for uv but for the small investment I still would. When I think of all the runoff from surrounding homes, the pesticides from spraying phragmites they've used, and any numerous bacteria present in our lake, it makes sense to UV at the end of the filtration process. Will even protect from potential bacteria building up within the system itself (which will happen).

Scenario- peroxide first, holding tank second, iron (back washable) system/softener third, uv lamp fourth. As a guess, you'd likely spend 3 to 4 grand for this. 90 percent of people would be cool with drinking this water, as it would be totally safe at this point. If you weren't comfortable with drinking the water out of the tap by then, then a $500 Berkey water filter on the kitchen counter would be the final step to perfect water.