Off Topic Lithium deep cycle battery

Ticker

Well-Known Member
Anyway use them ? Any feedback be appreciated
I'm going trough the led batteries every 3 years or less for my 24 v trolling motor just not holding the charge anymore for the full day , last 2 times out 3 hours and depleted , yes wiring I updated first day on the boat and using a minnkota plug with same heavy gauge wires I think its 8 or 10 gauge, current batteries are 100 ah last time got them from a battery shop in Kitchener
I keep them on charge all year with minnkota 3 bank smart charger
Use them for anchor mode when perching, bass fishing as well for trolling for boat control on low settings 3-5 on minnkota ulterra
Had a variety brands of batteries, I did read up on it if depleted beyond 50 % that effects it lifetime
So is lithium worth it ? Or upgrade to AGM only ?
Or just keep replacing the led type
 
Nope. Would love too but too expensive when you require 36v. Maybe someday.

I think if a flooded lead acid only lasts you three years I think you’re doing something wrong. I get the better part of a decade out of them. Do you continuously run them right down? I use mine for the same uses you mentioned and they always have plenty of juice left over. 3 x Costco Kirkland group 27s.
 
I've been using Alberta Lithium brand battieres all season on my 24v Terrova and they've been great. Way lighter too.


I've heard good things about these as well. More money but better warranty and a bit higher end.

 
Nope. Would love too but too expensive when you require 36v. Maybe someday.

I think if a flooded lead acid only lasts you three years I think you’re doing something wrong. I get the better part of a decade out of them. Do you continuously run them right down? I use mine for the same uses you mentioned and they always have plenty of juice left over. 3 x Costco Kirkland group 27s.
Only thing I can think of is 8-10 hours of fishing and it's running most of the time that deplete it beyond 50 % every time 🤷‍♂️
It's happens gradually over the season and I fish from end of March till mid November on average so it's get used a lot
I'm afraid to use it once the indicator shows low as I don't want the ulterra not being able stove
I have been paying attention to usage but only windy days it would deep bellow 50% when batteries were new , now it's after a few hours
Yes lithium is stupid priced but 10 years warranty,
Cost for 1 105 ah is about $800 x 2 for 10 years
Led $200 x 2 as of now 2-3 years = about same in long run
But its sure hurts the wallet 😕
Decision, Decision 🤔
 
GMG has a great solution for us in development. https://graphenemg.com
Their batteries should displace lead tech in the next 5 years. Speculatively speaking.
Until then either a good lead or lithium will have to do. Neither last long enough and lithium recharge time is too loooong.
 
@Ticker that doesn't seem normal. Before I got the lithiums, I ran two group 27 - 105Ah lead acids. I used spot lock and autopilot for 8 or more hours and the battery test would still show three (out of four). I run a Marinco 70A plug and 6 guage wire from the plug to the batteries. A 24v/80lb Minn Kota will run up to 56 amps at max speed. Make sure your wiring and plug system is rated to exceed 56 amps. That said, I couldn't even say whether or not that would cause accelerated power drain.
 
I don’t think so. If your wiring isn’t up to par it will get warm and cause a voltage drop. I guess that could cause batteries to drain faster but the bigger risk is a fire.
 
This is the plug I'm running , from battery to back of plug 8 gauge wire , and my bridge wire on battery terminal to terminal is a pre manufactured 6 gauge I got at Canadian tire
No corrosion on terminals
the batteries have allways was fine for the first 2 years , than its start to decline the time I get out of them ,
Screenshot_20220717-170946_Samsung Internet.jpgScreenshot_20220717-171022_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
I burn through led batteries in 3 years as well. Would love to switch to lithium but haven’t been able to bite the bullet on 4 of them.
 
I've been using Alberta Lithium brand battieres all season on my 24v Terrova and they've been great. Way lighter too.


I've heard good things about these as well. More money but better warranty and a bit higher end.

Lynac is also a canadian company apparently by the area code
 
@Ticker... This may be of some help Frank. You should be getting more than 2-3 years out of the batteries unless you're a tournament fisherman that's on the water constantly. :)

Maximizing Battery Life

To make your trolling motor’s batteries last longer and perform more reliably, keep these troubleshooting and maintenance tips in mind.

  • Battery and boat manufactures recommend that you fully recharge your trolling motor battery as soon as possible after use. Batteries that are left to sit with less than 12.4 volts are prone to the formation of lead sulfate inside the cells, which will severely impact their performance and lifespan.
  • It’s a good idea to use a trickle charger during the offseason to keep power flowing through the battery, or to re-charge them every month. Allowing your battery to sit uncharged for a long time will reduce its performance and shorten its lifespan.
  • As much as possible, drain your battery fully, and then recharge it fully. Repeated partial discharge and recharge creates a condition called stratification, in which the chemicals in the cells are out of balance. Essentially, the acid sinks to the bottom of the battery, limiting the performance and life of the unit.
  • Allow your battery to cool off after recharging. The recharging cycle produces a significant amount of heat inside the cells, and Immediately putting a hot battery to use can cause damage or total failure.
  • After each recharge, be sure to equalize the charge to keep battery cells in balance. Most battery chargers have an equalizing cycle, which applies an extended, low-current charge for a long period (usually 1 to 3 hours).
  • For lead-acid wet cell batteries, check water levels at least once each month, topping them off with distilled water as needed.
  • Be sure to clean the battery and its terminals before you put it in storage for the offseason, and store it in a dry, temperate environment. Don’t let your battery get too hot or too cold, as extreme temperatures are damaging.
  • When you take your battery out of storage, thoroughly inspect it for signs of damage. Bulging, cracks, frayed cables, and corrosion will severely impact your battery’s performance and could pose a health and safety hazard. If the damage is severe, you may have no choice be to replace the battery. Be sure to dispose of old batteries correctly.
  • If you have a lead-acid wet cell battery, perform routine voltage and specific gravity tests on the electrolyte solution in each cell to identify problems like over-watering and inadequate charge. You’ll need a hydrometer and a voltmeter for these tests, but you can purchase a reliable model of each for ten to fifteen dollars.
  • Invest in a high-quality charger. Cheap charging units never do a great job of charging the battery to full capacity.
 
Im running 2 24v lithiums in parallel to run my Rhodan trolling motor. Charging is via a DC to DC stealth charger that uses my engine alternator to charge them on the fly. The charger monitors my starting battery(s) and if they are above 85% charge, diverts the alternator energy into topping up the lithiums. I ran the electric 5 hours saturday at 3/4 throttle and they were 75% charged when I put the boat on the trailer. I finished topping them up with the AC charger they came with and that only took a few hours.

So far at least, I am very happy with the system. We will see what kind of life I get out of them. The weight savings is significant.
 
I had the same issue. Bought one of these:

Now, the "trolling motor" is a "spot lock motor".

And the capabilities of the autopilot blow the xi5 options out of the water. I'm thinking my battery life just got extended significantly, and fishing I have a great Capt to guide the boat. Takes orders and doesn't talk back., knows how to hold a steady course, and doesn't ask for a pay increase.
 
I run two 31 class lead acid and have plenty of room for steering without depleting the batteries too low. 12.3 volts is the lowest you should go without damaging your batteries. The Lowrance Outboard Pilot Cable Steer sounds like the thing to have.
 
@Ticker... This may be of some help Frank. You should be getting more than 2-3 years out of the batteries unless you're a tournament fisherman that's on the water constantly. :)

Maximizing Battery Life

To make your trolling motor’s batteries last longer and perform more reliably, keep these troubleshooting and maintenance tips in mind.

  • Battery and boat manufactures recommend that you fully recharge your trolling motor battery as soon as possible after use. Batteries that are left to sit with less than 12.4 volts are prone to the formation of lead sulfate inside the cells, which will severely impact their performance and lifespan.
  • It’s a good idea to use a trickle charger during the offseason to keep power flowing through the battery, or to re-charge them every month. Allowing your battery to sit uncharged for a long time will reduce its performance and shorten its lifespan.
  • As much as possible, drain your battery fully, and then recharge it fully. Repeated partial discharge and recharge creates a condition called stratification, in which the chemicals in the cells are out of balance. Essentially, the acid sinks to the bottom of the battery, limiting the performance and life of the unit.
  • Allow your battery to cool off after recharging. The recharging cycle produces a significant amount of heat inside the cells, and Immediately putting a hot battery to use can cause damage or total failure.
  • After each recharge, be sure to equalize the charge to keep battery cells in balance. Most battery chargers have an equalizing cycle, which applies an extended, low-current charge for a long period (usually 1 to 3 hours).
  • For lead-acid wet cell batteries, check water levels at least once each month, topping them off with distilled water as needed.
  • Be sure to clean the battery and its terminals before you put it in storage for the offseason, and store it in a dry, temperate environment. Don’t let your battery get too hot or too cold, as extreme temperatures are damaging.
  • When you take your battery out of storage, thoroughly inspect it for signs of damage. Bulging, cracks, frayed cables, and corrosion will severely impact your battery’s performance and could pose a health and safety hazard. If the damage is severe, you may have no choice be to replace the battery. Be sure to dispose of old batteries correctly.
  • If you have a lead-acid wet cell battery, perform routine voltage and specific gravity tests on the electrolyte solution in each cell to identify problems like over-watering and inadequate charge. You’ll need a hydrometer and a voltmeter for these tests, but you can purchase a reliable model of each for ten to fifteen dollars.
  • Invest in a high-quality charger. Cheap charging units never do a great job of charging the battery to full capacity.
@Wave Runner I do put a lot of time / use on the battery/ trolling motor, my season start rigth after ice out end March early April till mid to end of November " yes I know I got a problem 😏"
I also do all the things listed including the quality charger Minnkota smart charger
From what I read on battery it's common to get 2-3 years out of it on numerous websites, so I don't think there is anything wrong with the system in the boat
I will most likely replace the battery this summer with a Agm that be easier on the wallet
The price I have to pay to play as much as I do 🙄
To boot it all my fish hawk temperature sensor gone again on the replacement they sent me 2 years ego , can't complain the company sent me a new unit for cost of shipping that's arrived today 😃
Maybe now I can locate the elusive walleye a bit faster 🤔
 
@Ticker That's a lot to fishing. But hey, no one has ever grown old and said "I wish I hadn't have fished so much." lol!

Those Lithium battieres I linked (Alberta lithium) aren't all that much more than a good AGM battery. The difference with the lithiums is discharge. You can run a lithium down to almost zero before it will drop below 12v, and it will have a longer drain/charge cycle life.

Disadvantages would be, you may have additional cost for a charger if your current one doesn't charge LiFePO4 batteries. And if you use/charge them in sub zero temps, you'll need to buy the "extreme" version of a lithium. They have internal heaters and upgraded BMS.
 
Graphene aluminium Ion batteries can't get here fast enough!
 
Nope. Would love too but too expensive when you require 36v. Maybe someday.

I think if a flooded lead acid only lasts you three years I think you’re doing something wrong. I get the better part of a decade out of them. Do you continuously run them right down? I use mine for the same uses you mentioned and they always have plenty of juice left over. 3 x Costco Kirkland group 27s.
you are using the Kirkland Battery and are happy with them?? I have always wondered about those batteries
 
@Ushman Completly satisfied. I sold my old boat with a five and seven year old Kirkland group 27s and they were still going strong. I even told the buyer the batteries were old but still performed top notch, I’m not going to replace them just due to age. They completely agreed.

They’re made by the same company that makes interstate anyways (afaik this is Johnson Controls.) My new boat came with interstate for the cranking battery and it looks like it’s from the exact same molds as the Kirkland trolling motor batteries. Only difference is the colour of the plastic.
 
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This is the plug I'm running , from battery to back of plug 8 gauge wire , and my bridge wire on battery terminal to terminal is a pre manufactured 6 gauge I got at Canadian tire
No corrosion on terminals
the batteries have allways was fine for the first 2 years , than its start to decline the time I get out of them ,
View attachment 60690View attachment 60691

As a retired Electrician, #8 wire is not rated at 60amps.
Running Direct Current (DC) thru under sized wires connectors and terminals, is like the old commercial, "You can pay me now or pay me later."

More than 1 wire in a raceway(conduit, channel, running thru a hole)
60 degree Celsius, wet use, #8 wire has a Rated load of 40Amps, Max load on that circuit 80% of the wires rating, 32Amps.
60 degree Celsius, wet use, #6 wire has a Rated load of 55Amps, Max load on that circuit 80% of the wires rating, 44Amps.
60 degree Celsius, wet use, #4 wire has a Rated load of 70Amps, Max load on that circuit 80% of the wires rating, 56Amps.
60 degree Celsius, wet use, #2 wire has a Rated load of 100Amps, Max load on that circuit 80% of the wires rating, 80Amps.

Exceeding these basic Canadian Electrical Code rules will lead to a big reduction in system efficiency and this is without any distance calculations.

WuQ9h0Nl.jpg

Not shown is the small electric trolling motor.
In my 14ft boat I ran #4 wire thru a conduit from the battery at the front of the boat to the junction terminals for the motors & electronics at the back. I have a 100Amp Marine Breaker at the Battery. Soldered Copper connectors on the wires at the battery, breaker and junction terminals.
 
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