Knife sharpening
- Thread starter live2fish
- Start date
Trevor M
Well-Known Member
I have a two sided stone I use. One side course, the other fine. I'd like to find a three sided rotating stone like the one we had in the one restaurant I worked in years ago, one course, one medium, one fine, but haven't been able to find one yet. Then once I've sharpened my knives, I use the steel to take the burrs off.
I do have one knife though that I need to take to get professionally re-edged with a grinder or laser but even though I know I need to do that, I can still keep enough of an edge on it to do the job until I find a place to do that that I can afford.
I do have one knife though that I need to take to get professionally re-edged with a grinder or laser but even though I know I need to do that, I can still keep enough of an edge on it to do the job until I find a place to do that that I can afford.
DaveJ
Well-Known Member
You can try to touch it up with a stone, but you run the risk of damaging the original angle on the edge.
Unless you have something like a Lansky jig which maintains a proper angle, I would suggest getting it professionally sharpened. You can then use a steel to touch up the edge. Once professionally done, it will stay sharp for ages. Having all your home knives professionally sharpened yearly is a good investment. I make knives and have jigs and belt grinders to sharpen, and I still occasionally have a professional regrind some of my knives.
I have used fix blade sharpeners for years. 45 years ago I would use a honing stone with limited results as a Boy Scout. For our house knives, we have about 15 of them, we use a nice hand held Henkles (same as all our knives) unit that was not expensive, 30 bucks if I remember. For all my outdoor knives which all are mostly Puma, I use the small hand held unit that is very small and just a couple of strokes and it out is back to razor sharp. It has both a corse and a fine setting. You can go the Puma Canada site and they will ship to , about $20.00 when I got mine,I been sharpening my knives for over 50 years and the supply of permanently held stones or carbides has made all the difference in the world. DO NOT use different sharpeners for your knives, even if the sharpening stoners are out a couple of degrees it will dull your knives.
I am in Brantford, do you have any idea who around here is good and trustworthy for sharpening mine? thanks!
spearfisher
Well-Known Member
Work sharp and dont look back. I have used whetstones, lansky jigs et and nothing is easier and faster than work sharp
spincast
Well-Known Member
For a simple a quick sharp, even on edges that are gone the speedy sharp combined with a steel is hard to beat. Got this from a charter capt on lake o. He literally filets the days catch with a machete and this is what he used to keepl the edge on the blade.. it goes through big salmon like a hot knife through butter. I bought 3. I for the boat, one for the kitchen and one for when we lose one.
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Couldn’t agree more. Bought the worksharp 2 after trying everything for years. Results were consistent, razor sharp blades.
Lastchance
Well-Known Member
I have the work sharp but purchased a wet stone grinder with a leather polisher last year. You can fine tune a blade on it.
I agree the work sharp is great but have a hard time keeping a pointed edge with it unless you’re holding it by hand. That’s my only complaint.
I have been cutting meat as a hobby butcher for 25 years. The key is not to let your knife get dull in the first place. And good steel hand sharpener will bring a blade back but if it’s past that point you will need reset the edge with something better. With A good eye you will see the flat spots/chunks out of your edge
I have a Buck knife and an uncle Henry (both are folding hunter knives) that are almost identical. I use them to gut and skin moose, bear and deer. Use the same knifes every year. That hide is hard on a knife; doesn’t matter what they are. So I keep them touched up constantly and it works well.
My vote is to keep a few knives on hand with a steel sharpener and learn how to use it. I have a dickoron. Hope this helps
I agree the work sharp is great but have a hard time keeping a pointed edge with it unless you’re holding it by hand. That’s my only complaint.
I have been cutting meat as a hobby butcher for 25 years. The key is not to let your knife get dull in the first place. And good steel hand sharpener will bring a blade back but if it’s past that point you will need reset the edge with something better. With A good eye you will see the flat spots/chunks out of your edge
I have a Buck knife and an uncle Henry (both are folding hunter knives) that are almost identical. I use them to gut and skin moose, bear and deer. Use the same knifes every year. That hide is hard on a knife; doesn’t matter what they are. So I keep them touched up constantly and it works well.
My vote is to keep a few knives on hand with a steel sharpener and learn how to use it. I have a dickoron. Hope this helps
Octavius Brine
Well-Known Member
I just use a regular 2 sided oil stone you can buy at any hardware store, the $10-15 kind. Use whatever light oil is handy- I've been using the vegetable oil from the kitchen lately and it works great, just wipe it off with a rag when done (it can get sticky if you leave it, unlike the petroleum stuff). You likely won't need the coarse side if there are no nicks etc.
Don't practice on a knife you love (try a cheap pocket knife), watch a Youtube video for the basics and just give it a whirl. I've got years of practice, and I can sharpen all kinds of things that they say only to send out/never try at home (like meat grinder parts).
Don't practice on a knife you love (try a cheap pocket knife), watch a Youtube video for the basics and just give it a whirl. I've got years of practice, and I can sharpen all kinds of things that they say only to send out/never try at home (like meat grinder parts).
I use that Lansky system I bought from Amazon years ago. Comes with jig for 4 different angles, oil and 4 stones for the jig.
Tacklebuster
Well-Known Member
I got the Work Sharp Ken Onion version. I used to use honing stones and ceramics. They never got an edge that's remotely close to the Work Sharp, probably because I wasn't patient enough. Combine that with Steel to refine the edge when needed and you're good for a long time between sharpening. The best part about the Work Sharp is that I can sharpen a knife to a razor edge in less than 5 minutes. I can change the bevel to whatever angle I choose, and can sharpen just about anything, garden sheers, machete, lawn mower blade, even serrated blades. I even ground a point back to one of my blades which I broke 30 years ago. It's a huge time saver and works great. I almost bought the Lansky, but it's not versatile enough to sharpen everything.