Thank you
Kicker help
- Thread starter live2fish
- Start date
rockin-steelhead
Well-Known Member
If you can easily rerun the power for your toys etc that you want to be used off the kicker battery I would recommend that. I have 4 batteries in my boat, two for bow mount, kicker and big motor starting. Last thing you ever want is not have enough battery power to start the main motor. I find with my kicker battery I have never ever run into any issues with draining the battery in a 4-6 hour trip running 2x ff’s, vhf radio and two electric down riggers.
I used the battery selector for a couple years and then moved to all on just the kicker motor.
Also this year, I got one of those portable battery jump starters and will carry it out on the boat all times. I’ve come across boats in the past that drained their battery and needed a boost to get them going. Thankfully the one boater had jumper cables with him and I was able to assist with the jump start.
I used the battery selector for a couple years and then moved to all on just the kicker motor.
Also this year, I got one of those portable battery jump starters and will carry it out on the boat all times. I’ve come across boats in the past that drained their battery and needed a boost to get them going. Thankfully the one boater had jumper cables with him and I was able to assist with the jump start.
Unfortunately the way crestliner and the dealership has rigged it I can’t change it. They have a rigging tunnel for everything and it all goes to one compartment the other is empty with a small hole so easiest thing is to keep the main at it’s location and just put the kicker bat in the empty one. I wish they had ran rigging tubes to both.
The kicker I get will have an alternator. I was just curious how everyone on here keeps their main from dying if they are running electronics off its battery while using kicker on the other. Sounds like most use a switch. So I’m looking into having that done.
walleyeman
Well-Known Member
You can not add a tiller handle to a non-tiller motor. Sorry. No can do! I would just get a Non-Tiller model anyways.
Thank you !
The answer depends on if your kicker is electric start with a alternator. If it does below is a standard wiring layout used on most installs with a
Battery switch
Main motor and boat electrics connected to battery 1
Trolling motor and fishing electrics connected to Battery 2 ( Graph, downriggers, auto pilot etc.)
Both batteries should be starting batteries not deep cycle ( Proctor marine and Bridge yachts both recommend this but i am sure lots will not agree)
This way you charge when on the kicker and the main will always have full power to fire up for the run back in.
Check your wire run length and use the correct wire gauge and fuses for the amp draw.
Feel free to PM if you have questions
Battery switch
Main motor and boat electrics connected to battery 1
Trolling motor and fishing electrics connected to Battery 2 ( Graph, downriggers, auto pilot etc.)
Both batteries should be starting batteries not deep cycle ( Proctor marine and Bridge yachts both recommend this but i am sure lots will not agree)
This way you charge when on the kicker and the main will always have full power to fire up for the run back in.
Check your wire run length and use the correct wire gauge and fuses for the amp draw.
Feel free to PM if you have questions