High modulus

[live2fish]

Has anyone ever tried trolling with high modulus ? I spotted some great rod’s made for musky that are high modulus and not sure if they may shatter like normal graphite would while trolling ? I bought a low profile Okuma converter line counter cuz I’d like to try the skis with that for a change instead of salmon level wind reels, just gotta pair it with a good rod.

 

[Crestliner16]

There's no standard criteria for 'high modulus' in the fishing rods so it will vary among manufacturers and product lines, but in general a higher modulus rod will be more delicate.

Higher modulus means that the intended overall stiffness and 'action' characteristics can be achieved with less material, reducing the weight of the rod and increasing its sensitivity. These characteristics make for a better experience fishing with the rod 'in hand', but neither are beneficial in a trolling rod. The downside of less material (and more brittle material) is that it makes the rod less durable, less able to withstand damage. And they cost way more.

Most times when a rod breaks it's either because of prior damage (e.g. bouncing on gunwales, getting stepped on, etc) which reveals itself upon loading, or flexing at too harsh an angle ('high sticking'). Typical fiberglass trolling rods, or something like an Ugly Stik are far more resilient against these abuses than a high modulus graphite rod.

 

[live2fish]

There's no standard criteria for 'high modulus' in the fishing rods so it will vary among manufacturers and product lines, but in general a higher modulus rod will be more delicate.

Higher modulus means that the intended overall stiffness and 'action' characteristics can be achieved with less material, reducing the weight of the rod and increasing its sensitivity. These characteristics make for a better experience fishing with the rod 'in hand', but neither are beneficial in a trolling rod. The downside of less material (and more brittle material) is that it makes the rod less durable, less able to withstand damage. And they cost way more.

Most times when a rod breaks it's either because of prior damage (e.g. bouncing on gunwales, getting stepped on, etc) which reveals itself upon loading, or flexing at too harsh an angle ('high sticking'). Typical fiberglass trolling rods, or something like an Ugly Stik are far more resilient against these abuses than a high modulus graphite rod.

Thank you! I’ll continue my search for a non graphite rod.

 

[Crestliner16]

I should add a disclaimer: I'm not a musky guy.

There may well be a graphite rod out there that fits your needs, even one labelled 'high modulus.'

I would just say that if you're trolling in such a way that causes a graphite rod to explode, switching to an otherwise equal, but higher modulus rod would not help.

 

[live2fish]

I should add a disclaimer: I'm not a musky guy.

There may well be a graphite rod out there that fits your needs, even one labelled 'high modulus.'

I would just say that if you're trolling in such a way that causes a graphite rod to explode, switching to an otherwise equal, but higher modulus rod would not help.

I have never had a graphite explode but have heard of it and just don’t want it to happen lol especially if it’s cold late season and I finally have one on over 50”…. That would make me cry lol my 50” goal cannot be within hands (net) reach just to lose it from the rod exploding.

 

[Cannonball]

There's no standard criteria for 'high modulus' in the fishing rods so it will vary among manufacturers and product lines, but in general a higher modulus rod will be more delicate.

Higher modulus means that the intended overall stiffness and 'action' characteristics can be achieved with less material, reducing the weight of the rod and increasing its sensitivity. These characteristics make for a better experience fishing with the rod 'in hand', but neither are beneficial in a trolling rod. The downside of less material (and more brittle material) is that it makes the rod less durable, less able to withstand damage. And they cost way more.

Most times when a rod breaks it's either because of prior damage (e.g. bouncing on gunwales, getting stepped on, etc) which reveals itself upon loading, or flexing at too harsh an angle ('high sticking'). Typical fiberglass trolling rods, or something like an Ugly Stik are far more resilient against these abuses than a high modulus graphite rod.

Excellent points. I concur. I have been custom building rods since 1985. I have never had a graphite trolling rod nor musky rod returned for damage. I agree, with the rod in a rod holder, naturally there is no feel to the strike. It’s the feel in the fight that makes the big difference.