DaveJ
Well-Known Member
Ill try it today..can I just tie it on some weights and lift?
Braided line
- Thread starter DaveJ
- Start date
I guess that would work but would not be as accurate as a scale. I used my compound bow draw weight scale to do mine. I just tied on and pulled down until it broke showing exact lbs. when it did.
It’s all fun and games until you lose your dipsy rig to a musky. Depending on where you fish 50lb braid is good to go and with the new diameters it’s not even going to change the dive curve. I’ve never needed to use wire so I have no idea about that.
10 plus years ago around normandale we lost shallow jets until we figured it out
Twister
Well-Known Member
Saving money fishing is like loosing weight by eating chocolate. Can't really go out for less than100$ these days. Pic-eyes not going to stress you gear but I'm not going to change line when I head to lake 0 or st Clair where there are critters that will. Would really hate to trade the$ I saved for the fish of a lifetime I lost. That said if you buy 80 that breaks at 40 you're probably good to go.
Musky attack dipsie's??
Wire dipsie's are used for a bunch of different reason's... absolute zero stretch, run deeper, easier with fleas, omits postive ions...
I run 50lbs braid just for the fact it holds in the planar board clips a lot better in rough water, nothing to do with strength of it for fish,
30lbs in my clips in 3 footer will release none stop all day long gets annoying
Crestliner16
Well-Known Member
Going on 4 or 5 seasons now with the knockoff braid on trolling reels and I’ve had zero issues, zero line breaks, and zero need to replace. I use KastKing brand, 4 carrier braid in 40 lb test hi vis yellow; used to be able to get a 500 m spool for 5-8 bucks. No doubt there’s some garbage for sale out there, but this stuff has been fine for me.
Like high octane gas - more $ won’t necessarily mean better performance – depends on what you're doing with it. Some of the more expensive braids handle differently/better especially on small diameter spools or spinning reels, they can be quieter through guides or weeds, coated with this or that, different densities… IMO none of that matters for the trolling I do. Other kinds of fishing can be a different story.
40 lb test braid is a good diameter for me on a trolling reel, thin lines are harder to untangle, harder to grip (as above), and it takes a mile of line to actually fill the spool. The strength is overkill but gives some peace of mind to keep that same line spooled for several seasons, whereas leaders are replaced frequently. If strength of the knockoff braid was a concern (it's not, IMO), I always have a weaker link in the chain ahead of the braid anyway, by design (dipsy leader @ 20-25 lb test, or leadcore + leader at 12, 15 lb test). Works for me and has saved hundreds of dollars so far.
Like high octane gas - more $ won’t necessarily mean better performance – depends on what you're doing with it. Some of the more expensive braids handle differently/better especially on small diameter spools or spinning reels, they can be quieter through guides or weeds, coated with this or that, different densities… IMO none of that matters for the trolling I do. Other kinds of fishing can be a different story.
40 lb test braid is a good diameter for me on a trolling reel, thin lines are harder to untangle, harder to grip (as above), and it takes a mile of line to actually fill the spool. The strength is overkill but gives some peace of mind to keep that same line spooled for several seasons, whereas leaders are replaced frequently. If strength of the knockoff braid was a concern (it's not, IMO), I always have a weaker link in the chain ahead of the braid anyway, by design (dipsy leader @ 20-25 lb test, or leadcore + leader at 12, 15 lb test). Works for me and has saved hundreds of dollars so far.
done working
Well-Known Member
I only use 15lb braid because it allows me to use light action rods and 15 or 20 series reels where I can feel the fish fight and not just winch them in. Your standard deep diving lures, like reef runners, deep thunderstick, etc will also hit 40ft+ so no need for leadcore or dipsys until late in the season.
With the light line I had the same problem with the line popping out of the planner board release in the waves. I got some of the Sam's releases https://www.offshoretackle.com/OR39.html, which are adjustable and will not pop out until you set the hook. It took a bit to figure out how to set them up, but they work great. Have the "finger" on the release pointing to rear of the board and wrap the line clockwise. The offshore Sam's releases are expensive, but there are some knock offs out there that are cheaper.
I'm usually a huge stickler for all the small details. Constantly tinkering with every small detail on my gear to maximize efficiency. But I have to admit last year I respooled my trolling reels with 25 lb Mako brand braid from Dollarama and it performed all season without a single issue. On any other reels I am looking at characteristics like handling, castability, color, etc and have settled on only Fireline Crystal on my spinning and centerpins that need braid and PowerPro super slick on my casting reels. On trolling reels the only characteristics needed really are strength to diameter and durability. The budget line has held up great in both regards. I try to re-tie everything every if not every second trip and my setups are stored indoors on a rack out of the elements which I am sure helps too. Personally I've seen cheap terminal tackle cause the most issues and make sure I buy the best in the smallest size I can get away with.(Torpedo ball bearing are a favourite of mine)Upgraded hooks are also money well spent as well I make sure to buy the best leadcore available as the new tech leadcores like Suffix Advanced and Tufline micro lead really do make life easier.. As long as the 25lb Mako braid performs as it should it will stay on the 8 reels I currently run it on
Alot of people may want to check the back of their suffix, power pro and Berkley spools too. Most of the big brands are sub contracting to China anyways. I'm big into finesse spin reels and the entry level for made in Japan is about 600$ mark with a Daiwa Certate. Well above your typical stradics etc which have been coming out of Malyasia for many years now.
Dave J I found this video review on that Hercules braid and in his tests the 50 lb. was breaking consistently at 30 lbs. so maybe keep that in mind.After a day fishing with the legendary Tailfeathers and observing all of his secret setups and gear, I wanted switched over some of my setups to braid line...the dipsies in particular, but also the inline boards. Braid at tackle stores was .15 cents/yard X 200 yards X 6 reels..around $200 with tax. Based on the Capts advice I ordered some braid off of Aliexpress...Hercules Multifilament Fishing Line 40lb test equivalent. 2000 yards delivered $36. It may not be the best 8 strand coated UV resistant tournament stuff the pros use...but for dragging baits on Erie...dang!!
Thanks for the advice Capt!!
DaveJ
Well-Known Member
TEST RESULTS>>>>
I dont have a scale, so I used a bucket of water on a scale. I started at 15 lbs, added 1 lb of water each lift. I tied a 4' length of line to the bucket handle using a Trilene knot, tied the other end to a round wooden dowel with the same knot.
40lb 0.32mm Hercules China..broke at 1) 24lbs, 2) 26 lbs
30 lb PE J Braid Japan 0.25mm...broke at 1) 20lbs 2) 18lbs
So...disappointing but similar results from the cheapo Chinese and the expensive-ish Japanese braid.
I know now the chinese braid will give me 20+ lbs straight line tensile..so not taking into account the erratic pull of a fish and wave action. Ok for walleye on Erie, most rainbows, sketchy on a salmon, scarey on a big LSC ski. Same with the more expensive stuff. I regularly use 12/14lb test mono on Erie as I have the proper rod/reel combos to handle lighter setups so 20+ should be fine
....but this summer will tell......
I dont have a scale, so I used a bucket of water on a scale. I started at 15 lbs, added 1 lb of water each lift. I tied a 4' length of line to the bucket handle using a Trilene knot, tied the other end to a round wooden dowel with the same knot.
40lb 0.32mm Hercules China..broke at 1) 24lbs, 2) 26 lbs
30 lb PE J Braid Japan 0.25mm...broke at 1) 20lbs 2) 18lbs
So...disappointing but similar results from the cheapo Chinese and the expensive-ish Japanese braid.
I know now the chinese braid will give me 20+ lbs straight line tensile..so not taking into account the erratic pull of a fish and wave action. Ok for walleye on Erie, most rainbows, sketchy on a salmon, scarey on a big LSC ski. Same with the more expensive stuff. I regularly use 12/14lb test mono on Erie as I have the proper rod/reel combos to handle lighter setups so 20+ should be fine
....but this summer will tell......
Octavius Brine
Well-Known Member
Normally the knot is the weak point, and if you look up knots it is common to see a % related to how much strength of the original rope they maintain.
My guess is the official test for breaking strength holds the line in clamps or in some apparatus that avoids needing any knots. Plus pulls very straight, no yanking etc.
I’d just be happy that the J braid was fairly similar! Plus, it depends on the reel but most have a maximum drag setting well below the breaking strength of either of those lines so odds are it’ll be just fine (though maybe not the 2X overkill you thought).
hvyhaul
Well-Known Member
Yes absolutely. I use a bowline for jigging and wacky worm setup.
Octavius Brine
Well-Known Member
Spotted some braid on clearance at Canadian Tire today, thought I would share the deal... Berkley Solutions, 110 yards (100 m) for $11 and change. Not quite as cheap as the Alibaba stuff, but I had good luck with this brand.