Boat charging system help

C

ch312

Well-Known Member
I’ve had my 2006 G3 deep V angler 165 w/ 90hp Yamaha 4 stroke for 10 years so far and finally got around to playing with the placement of the batteries. The two batteries for the trolling motor have always been in a rear compartment, but I want to relocate them to the front for better balance. There are existing battery hookups in both front and rear.

Here’s my question though. How does the charging system work? With the engine running I am reading over 14 volts at the terminals of the starting battery, but cannot get any reading at the front or rear trolling motor wires. I would think there’d be power going to these wires to charge the trolling motor batteries. I have never had to charge these batteries so the boat is/was charging these batteries in the rear compartment.


What’s the deal? Do I have an onboard charger hidden somewhere? Does it just charge the starting battery at idle then start throwing power when the motor is in drive?
 
Your main engine doesn't typically charge your trolling motor batteries. They get charged by either an old-fashioned clamp on charger or an onboard charger that you plug in when the boat is parked.

If you've never had to charge your batteries than something funny is going on. I bet they're ll hooked up in parallel, which is a bad idea because the trolling motor will draw from all the batteries. After a long day of fishing you won't be able to start your engine.

Move the batteries up front and install an onboard charger. Just plug it in when you get home and unplug when you leave.
 
If you're buying an onboard plug in multi bank charger be aware that some of the price difference is the amps per bank. More is better.
With a kicker, I don't run my big motor enough to charge the trolling motors batteries while fishing. If you troll with your main motor, a charger using its alternator would work. I'd still get a plug in bank charger as batteries like to be kept topped up when not in use.
 
is there a battery switch somewhere? Originally when I had mine installed they put it inside my rear hatch. I had it moved to outside so it is easy to reach.I then wired the front battery to the battery switch which was then connected to the main battery. In the off position there was no power anywhere except for a by-pass to the bilge pump. On number one it only powered the main drive, when switched to "Both" it would then connect the front battery to the rear and charge the front trolling battery. It also provided power to crank a dead main battery when put in Both position. I would drive around in the Both position and then when getting to the trolling spot would turn switch to One which would isolate the front battery from the rear.

I did it my self, wasn't too bad. Hardest part was getting the wiring to go from front to back, I ended up using booster cables. If your is pre-wired your in luck.

So just because you have existing wiring front and rear for your trolling motor, that might not mean the you have wiring to the main battery. At your front battery compartment there should be two positive and two negative wires. One wire to the trolling motor and a heavy duty one to the back to the main battery.
 
Each battery compartment only has 1 positive and 1 negative cable and I cannot locate any switch. I have no clue if there is a hidden onboard charger, but I will attempt to open up the only area it could possibly be.


In the 10+ years of owning this bought I have never used a clamp on charger for the batteries during the boating season. The onboard battery meter at the trolling motor control shows full charge whenever I check it so the batteries are getting charged somehow. Obviously it’s not possible to go an entire boating season without charging the trolling batteries.


I discovered this by testing the front compartment to be sure the batteries would get charged, but then started scratching my head after discovering the rear wasn’t getting power either.


Could it be that something happened (corrosion, mice) this winter and coincidentally the first time I used the meter there is now no power?
 
Is there any chance you can get your hands on a wiring diagram for your boat?
 
ch312 said:
Each battery compartment only has 1 positive and 1 negative cable and I cannot locate any switch
Click to expand...
Do each of those wires go to a terminal or fuse block?

Do you have a digital multimeter? Put it on continuity mode, disconnect all your batteries and see if there is continuity between the positives, then again for the negatives (but the negatives being tied together wouldn't be unexpected.) If all your positives are connected then your batteries are all connected in parallel, meaning your outboard is charging them all but your trolling motor is also drawing from them all.
 
wildfire has got it right minne kota alternater got one 2 years . batterys 3 years old 24 volt.can run auto pilot on power of 4 all day.hope u have skill to install??????
 
I knew those electronics engineering courses in college would come in useful someday. 😊
 
I put a ACR on mine(automatic charge relay). Charges main battery first from either the main motor or kicker. Once main battery is charged it switches to charging the trolling motor battery. Nice thing is I don't have to worry about trolling motor draining the main motor battery as it doesn't allow draw that way. I love it.
 
X
Wildfire said:
Do each of those wires go to a terminal or fuse block?

Do you have a digital multimeter? Put it on continuity mode, disconnect all your batteries and see if there is continuity between the positives, then again for the negatives (but the negatives being tied together wouldn't be unexpected.) If all your positives are connected then your batteries are all connected in parallel, meaning your outboard is charging them all but your trolling motor is also drawing from them all.
Click to expand...

I tried all possible combinations between all 3 locations to hookup the batteries and there is no continuity between any of them.
 
It's sounding more and more that a trip to a marina is in your future, ask them to install an accessible battery switch.
 
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