Advice on Electric Downriggers

FYI the cannons also come with a hand crank for emergency retrieval. Can be used to go either way but not all that convenient. I run the off my single starting battery and its 8 seasons old now. Never been an issue with draining the battery. Could be the pro kicker has a charging system making up for the power draw.
 
Tyee said:
You can buy a stand alone transducer that hooks into the 10's that allow them to track bottom and adjust automatically. 5's cannot and must be either controlled by the keypad or a Hummingbird head unit.
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What would be the advantage of tracking the bottom, unless maybe fishing lake trout? I’m just not seeing that as a valuable feature 🤷‍♂️, but I do agree cannons have more tech.
 
Can program them to cycle throughout the water column to cover a wider range as well
 
speaking of downriggers, I currently have scotty's with I think a 48" boom... I find Scotty's to be oversized, clunky and difficult to store and remount (4 thumb screws each... what were they thinking). Anyhow, I have been thinking of switching to Cannon 24" and I wonder if anyone can point out something I will be missing with the longer boom... other then 24" The longer boom tends to get in the way of dipsey rods etc... stuff mounted in front of the rigger.
 
So no one can find an advantage to having 48” beam vs 24” boom?
 
Capt. KerrPlunk said:
On a boat with an I/O engine such as a Mercruiser, the 48” boom will clear the outdrive allowing downriggers to be mounted astern (hope that’s the right word). I don’t see anything except inconvenience if you run a long boom off the side.
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Thank you! That makes total sense, I never thought to run them straight out the back.... I knew there must be a reason for them to exist! I am tempted to cut the ones I have down now, as the torque on the mounting area is warping the board. I would imagine at 24" the torque would be much less.
 
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