Off Topic Slider depth

I've always assumed my sliders to be deeper than 1/2 my rigger depth šŸ¤· And the larger the bow in the line the higher the slider will ride. A heavier spoon will also run deeper than a flutter spoon. If you want to set you slider depth get a bag of dental elastics to loop on your mainline as you let it out, run your swivel through the loop and attach to mainline. Used to do this in Owen Sound and run multiple sliders šŸ˜‰

Josh
 
Anyone know if fishhawk makes a slider version? I'd like to attach fishhawks to my sliders after this conversation.
 
Anyone know if fishhawk makes a slider version? I'd like to attach fishhawks to my sliders after this conversation.
I am pretty sure you could use FishHawk TD with that
 
Anyone know if fishhawk makes a slider version? I'd like to attach fishhawks to my sliders after this conversation.

Fish hawk TD

fhtd.jpg

Expect to pay at least $165 or more for one nowadays.

Correction, listed for $200 at Radio World.
 
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I have a slider question for the pros. I infrequently use a slider but this is the setup. About a 6ā€™ leader 40 lb, small snap swivel for the spoon, big ass snap swivel to attach to the fishing line down to the rigger ball. The big ass swivel will slide down and over the knot resting on the other snap swivel on the fishing line. Worked good last year not so much this year. When I retrieve the line off the rigger the slider is all twisted and wrapped around the main line. This happens when there are no fish on either lure. What am I doing wrong?

TIA Rick
 
That happens when you release it into the water, happened to me all the time year one using a slider.

Make sure you toss the slider out and away and keep the main line still while the slider disappears from sight
 
Intuitively, with a fairly loose line and/or a thick diameter with lots of drag through the water, heavy ball (minimal blowback), your line would form essentially a ā€œUā€ shape and the slider would run around half depth. At the other extreme, if your rod was really, really cranked down with thin line and especially if you run a light ball (lots of blowback), your slider could run all the way down and tangle up (same as would happen if you dropped a slider on a dipsy rod or thumper rod).

Reality is somewhere in between these extremes and depends on several variables as others said above.

In any case, pretty cool to see sliders on the graph. The fact you can see them inside a 30* cone indicates youā€™re not getting much blowback, right? In my mind the slider snap should always be behind the ball (otherwise it would keep sliding down), plus leader length to get to the lure. Assuming the return comes from the spoon, not the snap and the transducer is level. At 40 ft down (ish) your cone should only cover ~11 ft behind the transducer, so if you had a 5 ft slider lead that would mean your cannonball at 60 ft (ish) is pulling 6 ft or likely less behind the transducer ā€“ pretty much straight up and down. Sound right?

I was of the impression that wider cone angles are normally needed to see the cannonballs, let alone a slider thatā€™s shallower and further back. And then at the outer limits of a wider cone you get into more significant differences between true depth and "depth" on the graph.
 
You can add a small release or Dream weaver stacker to your slider and set it to the depth you want. You also get a better hook set.
 
That happens when you release it into the water, happened to me all the time year one using a slider.

Make sure you toss the slider out and away and keep the main line still while the slider disappears from sight
Donā€™t get it @hvyhaul . Used them last year with zero issues. I set the rigger rod with tensioned line. Attach the snap clip to this line and then toss the slider lure back in the slip stream. Should be tight. Pull both in and the slider is snarled about the rigger line midway down the rigger fishing line. Any further suggestions? Thanks.
 
I have a slider question for the pros. I infrequently use a slider but this is the setup. About a 6ā€™ leader 40 lb, small snap swivel for the spoon, big ass snap swivel to attach to the fishing line down to the rigger ball. The big ass swivel will slide down and over the knot resting on the other snap swivel on the fishing line. Worked good last year not so much this year. When I retrieve the line off the rigger the slider is all twisted and wrapped around the main line. This happens when there are no fish on either lure. What am I doing wrong?

TIA Rick
I use a silicon/rubber bobber stopper with a decent size bead (my daughters have a lot in stock), which I move about 3-6 ft higher than the main line's ball-bearing swivel. So when the fish hits or when you are just retrieving, the slider will always stop at that bead, i.e. there will be some spacing between the slider and the rest of the stuff past that main line's ball-bearing swivel, and the tangles most of the time will be either minimal or non-existent. I have this on all my downrigger rods.
 
I toss mine out and away from the main line at an angle.

I don't have the rod in the rod holder yet and wait for a bit before I tension the rod.

I also control the line going out for the mainline while I lower the weight.

Once that's done I make sure no more main line comes out while hooking up and releasing the slider into the water.

Dunno, probably a very small thing is allowing the two lines to wrap one another.

You might have too big a bow in the line.
 
Donā€™t get it @hvyhaul . Used them last year with zero issues. I set the rigger rod with tensioned line. Attach the snap clip to this line and then toss the slider lure back in the slip stream. Should be tight. Pull both in and the slider is snarled about the rigger line midway down the rigger fishing line. Any further suggestions? Thanks.
Richardscott999, I have had the issues like you before. I made 2 adjustments:
1. I don't use leader on the main line at all, I use 25 lb fluoro line for Erie/GB and 30 lb mono on lake O.
2. My slider is about 7-8 ft long. I put the snap end on the main line and hold it. Then I toss the slider spoon into the propeller wash. Once I have a tension on the slider line I let go the snap and it slides down. Hope it helps with your problem
 
Intuitively, with a fairly loose line and/or a thick diameter with lots of drag through the water, heavy ball (minimal blowback), your line would form essentially a ā€œUā€ shape and the slider would run around half depth. At the other extreme, if your rod was really, really cranked down with thin line and especially if you run a light ball (lots of blowback), your slider could run all the way down and tangle up (same as would happen if you dropped a slider on a dipsy rod or thumper rod).

Reality is somewhere in between these extremes and depends on several variables as others said above.

In any case, pretty cool to see sliders on the graph. The fact you can see them inside a 30* cone indicates youā€™re not getting much blowback, right? In my mind the slider snap should always be behind the ball (otherwise it would keep sliding down), plus leader length to get to the lure. Assuming the return comes from the spoon, not the snap and the transducer is level. At 40 ft down (ish) your cone should only cover ~11 ft behind the transducer, so if you had a 5 ft slider lead that would mean your cannonball at 60 ft (ish) is pulling 6 ft or likely less behind the transducer ā€“ pretty much straight up and down. Sound right?

I was of the impression that wider cone angles are normally needed to see the cannonballs, let alone a slider thatā€™s shallower and further back. And then at the outer limits of a wider cone you get into more significant differences between true depth and "depth" on the graph.
I only run 3ā€™ slider leads, but now Iā€™m curious what Iā€™m getting returns on. Iā€™m going to make a super long slider and see if I get returns..
btw, even if the ball is 30ā€™ Iā€™m getting a slider return.
 
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