Rivet repairs

Extra Virgin

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R.O.C. (Radio Operator's Certificate)
I am in need of some rivets replaced and my Lund dealer has been less than helpful. Anyone know a shop I can take her to get them replaced? Ron Bankes no longer repairs boats anymore btw
 

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The guy below has done repairs for me in the past. Good workmanship fair price.
 
Very simple and cheap to do yourself, get a box of blind-end pop rivets from Spaneur in Kitchener and a small tube of 3M 5200. Drill them out, dab on a little goo and pop them in. I did about 35 on my old smokercraft 2 years ago and it's watertight again.
 
The guy below has done repairs for me in the past. Good workmanship fair price.
I beleive thats the guy i heard about
 
A fellow boater at the marina I'm at had his boat sprayed with line-X and no leaks.
 
A fellow boater at the marina I'm at had his boat sprayed with line-X and no leaks.
LineX you say? I was thinking of spraying the inside of my tinnie from the chine down with a do-it -yourself product similar to LineX as a way to make it a less slippery surface for walking on. It can be quite slick when wet, especially if you're barefoot in the boat - which I almost always am. Anybody else tried this?
 
Very simple and cheap to do yourself, get a box of blind-end pop rivets from Spaneur in Kitchener and a small tube of 3M 5200. Drill them out, dab on a little goo and pop them in. I did about 35 on my old smokercraft 2 years ago and it's watertight again.
I too have replaced a few rivets as well - with an air riveting tool. I used PRC sealant rather than 3M 5200 and this worked very well even though it was my first attempt at riveting anything myself. 👍 One cautionary note though, rivets come in several sizes (both lengths and diameters) and you might want to take one of the blown rivets with you while look for a replacement to be sure you get the proper size. Mine were #7 rivets and length varies depending on how many layers of aluminum you are bonding together and the gauge of the aluminum itself . The larger the number, the larger the diameter of the rivet. If you see it done, even once, either in person or on a video, you will see how simple it really is to do for yourself.😁
 
I too have replaced a few rivets as well - with an air riveting tool. I used PRC sealant rather than 3M 5200 and this worked very well even though it was my first attempt at riveting anything myself. 👍 One cautionary note though, rivets come in several sizes (both lengths and diameters) and you might want to take one of the blown rivets with you while look for a replacement to be sure you get the proper size. Mine were #7 rivets and length varies depending on how many layers of aluminum you are bonding together and the gauge of the aluminum itself . The larger the number, the larger the diameter of the rivet. If you see it done, even once, either in person or on a video, you will see how simple it really is to do for yourself.😁
You are very correct on sizes. Helped redo a couple boats In my younger days using an air riveter also and it was definitely quick and easy with 2 guys. Can't remember which sealer we used but all the boats still don't leak to this day and are used a lot for late fall duck hunting breaking ice.
 
I too have replaced a few rivets as well - with an air riveting tool. I used PRC sealant rather than 3M 5200 and this worked very well even though it was my first attempt at riveting anything myself. 👍 One cautionary note though, rivets come in several sizes (both lengths and diameters) and you might want to take one of the blown rivets with you while look for a replacement to be sure you get the proper size. Mine were #7 rivets and length varies depending on how many layers of aluminum you are bonding together and the gauge of the aluminum itself . The larger the number, the larger the diameter of the rivet. If you see it done, even once, either in person or on a video, you will see how simple it really is to do for yourself.😁
Access can be the most difficult part if some of the leakers are above the trailer frame, as quite a few of mine were. Without a lift to pick the boat off the trailer I had to get creative to make room to work, but got it done. I have a heavy-duty two handed riveter that worked well to really pull them tight.

You may also find, depending how long they have been loose, and the ones in the photo looked like they have been loose awhile, that the holes will be worn and you may have to drill up a size and put in larger rivets. Spaneur has all their sizes in their catalog.

I went over each and every rivet with a suction cup, if the cup would not hold suction I replaced the rivet, even if it didn't look loose. Many you could tap and it would sound loose but not look loose. My boat went from running the bilge once an hour to not turning it on once in a full season.
 
The braces inside the hull should be checked. The split around the rivet holes which causes the rivets to come loose. The closeness of the waves on the inner bay is hard on hulls.
 
If you are the original owner, it should be a dealer repair. Under warranty?
It should, but i am getting the run around. They say i hit something when there is clearly no paint missing where the rivets are leaking. I will be sourcing out repairs myself, deal with Lund directly and eventually trade up for an all welded boat.
 
Extra Virgin:
That sucks. 😝 First the Lund foray into foreign/substandard manufacturing now failing to stand behind a product. I hope it is just a dealer issue and not a Lund issue. 🤞 They should be working hard to get customer/brand loyalty back. Dealers - you can work around... manufacturers - not so much. 😒 You would think that at the price a boat retails for in this day and age 💰 that there would be some sense, however fleeting, of urgency for keeping customers happy. Would you mind spilling the name of the dealer in question? It sounds like someone it might be wise for me to avoid ⛔️ in the future. I hope all ends well and Lund eventually comes through for you.
 
Notify them that you want results or you will go to Crestliner or Princecraft that stands behind their product or some other boat mfg.
 
It should, but i am getting the run around. They say i hit something when there is clearly no paint missing where the rivets are leaking. I will be sourcing out repairs myself, deal with Lund directly and eventually trade up for an all welded boat.
Are you getting run around from the Lund dealer at the end of the causeway?
 
@Extra Virgin.... Hey Jamie the blind-end aluminum pop riveting along with the 3M 5200 suggested by @chris178 is a cheap, easy and permanent solution to fixing your problem. Lund should be the one correcting it under warranty but unfortunately Lund does not build boats anywhere near the quality they use to. In recent years numerous problems have risen regarding Lund's quality that were never in question years ago when they built the finest aluminum boat on the market. Unfortunately that's no longer the case. Sorry to hear of the issues you're having. :(
 
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