I beleive thats the guy i heard aboutThe guy below has done repairs for me in the past. Good workmanship fair price.
Aluminum Boat Repair ,Re-Riveting .Props & Skegs | Powerboats & Motorboats | Hamilton | Kijiji
Paul's Marine Welding , 14 Mulholland Lane Lynden Ont , L0R 1T0 519-647-2110 Aluminum Boat Repairs , Hull Re-Riveting , Props & Skegs , Transom Wood Replaced With White Oak m Bow Stem Repair , Cracked Manifold Welded , Floors Replaced , Marine Plywood or Aluminum , Carpet vinyl , Please call...www.kijiji.ca
LineX you say? I was thinking of spraying the inside of my tinnie from the chine down with a do-it -yourself product similar to LineX as a way to make it a less slippery surface for walking on. It can be quite slick when wet, especially if you're barefoot in the boat - which I almost always am. Anybody else tried this?A fellow boater at the marina I'm at had his boat sprayed with line-X and no leaks.
I too have replaced a few rivets as well - with an air riveting tool. I used PRC sealant rather than 3M 5200 and this worked very well even though it was my first attempt at riveting anything myself. One cautionary note though, rivets come in several sizes (both lengths and diameters) and you might want to take one of the blown rivets with you while look for a replacement to be sure you get the proper size. Mine were #7 rivets and length varies depending on how many layers of aluminum you are bonding together and the gauge of the aluminum itself . The larger the number, the larger the diameter of the rivet. If you see it done, even once, either in person or on a video, you will see how simple it really is to do for yourself.Very simple and cheap to do yourself, get a box of blind-end pop rivets from Spaneur in Kitchener and a small tube of 3M 5200. Drill them out, dab on a little goo and pop them in. I did about 35 on my old smokercraft 2 years ago and it's watertight again.
You are very correct on sizes. Helped redo a couple boats In my younger days using an air riveter also and it was definitely quick and easy with 2 guys. Can't remember which sealer we used but all the boats still don't leak to this day and are used a lot for late fall duck hunting breaking ice.I too have replaced a few rivets as well - with an air riveting tool. I used PRC sealant rather than 3M 5200 and this worked very well even though it was my first attempt at riveting anything myself. One cautionary note though, rivets come in several sizes (both lengths and diameters) and you might want to take one of the blown rivets with you while look for a replacement to be sure you get the proper size. Mine were #7 rivets and length varies depending on how many layers of aluminum you are bonding together and the gauge of the aluminum itself . The larger the number, the larger the diameter of the rivet. If you see it done, even once, either in person or on a video, you will see how simple it really is to do for yourself.
Access can be the most difficult part if some of the leakers are above the trailer frame, as quite a few of mine were. Without a lift to pick the boat off the trailer I had to get creative to make room to work, but got it done. I have a heavy-duty two handed riveter that worked well to really pull them tight.I too have replaced a few rivets as well - with an air riveting tool. I used PRC sealant rather than 3M 5200 and this worked very well even though it was my first attempt at riveting anything myself. One cautionary note though, rivets come in several sizes (both lengths and diameters) and you might want to take one of the blown rivets with you while look for a replacement to be sure you get the proper size. Mine were #7 rivets and length varies depending on how many layers of aluminum you are bonding together and the gauge of the aluminum itself . The larger the number, the larger the diameter of the rivet. If you see it done, even once, either in person or on a video, you will see how simple it really is to do for yourself.
It should, but i am getting the run around. They say i hit something when there is clearly no paint missing where the rivets are leaking. I will be sourcing out repairs myself, deal with Lund directly and eventually trade up for an all welded boat.If you are the original owner, it should be a dealer repair. Under warranty?
Are you getting run around from the Lund dealer at the end of the causeway?It should, but i am getting the run around. They say i hit something when there is clearly no paint missing where the rivets are leaking. I will be sourcing out repairs myself, deal with Lund directly and eventually trade up for an all welded boat.
No not that one, but I should not answer which other dealers it isn't as there aren't that many in SW OntarioAre you getting run around from the Lund dealer at the end of the causeway?
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