Off Topic Question about cannon tracks

[Baitwaster]

Planning to install one 36 inch and one 24 inch cannon track Was going to use a combination of JB Weld and about half the screws don’t wanna be putting 20 holes in the boat Going to be used for mostly rod holders but would like to move the down Riggers up on occasion has anyone tried this combination TIA

 

[proV2025]

Planning to install one 36 inch and one 24 inch cannon track Was going to use a combination of JB Weld and about half the screws don’t wanna be putting 20 holes in the boat Going to be used for mostly rod holders but would like to move the down Riggers up on occasion has anyone tried this combination TIA

I wouldn't rely on the JB Weld for anything as the stresses on the joint flex, especially as a downrigger fix point. Don't use screws - use through bolts and nuts and washers like 1/4 x 20 size, and make plywood backerboards under the deck, the thicker, wider and longer the better. The plywood adds more strength to the gunwale or other mounting location. This is just how I did my boat and my sons new 20' Legend and what I would recommend to others when mounting for riggers.

 

[GPS]

What proV said. I used 1/4" aluminum plate as a backerboard so there is no eventual decay like what happens with wood.
You could also put a bead of 3-M 5200 sealant between the gunnel and the track.

 

[spincast]

What proV said. I used 1/4" aluminum plate as a backerboard so there is no eventual decay like what happens with wood.
You could also put a bead of 3-M 5200 sealant between the gunnel and the track.

You didn't mention if your boat is aluminum or fiberglass, although if your profile pic is what you are running I am gonna assume aluminum a lot of the newer boats, just use cheap plywood next to the gunnels for mounting tracks I don't feel confident trusting that much investment to plywood. the stress from a 10lb ball on a 36 inch rigger in 3 foot waves needs a good solid mount
A few holes you can't see looks way better than a track ripped out and a rigger and all your tackle on the bottom of the lake

I put my track in using aluminum under the gunnel mount for the rod holders , and had a separate piece fabbed for the rigger mounts as I will run 12lb weights. That's a lot of stress in 3 foot waves, even If the weight stays in the water there is aluminum stock under the rigger mount too. Only way that thing is coming off is if I snag Godzilla

 

[GPS]

Mine is fiberglass with 8" wide gunnels. And 34 years old.

 

[spincast]

Mine is fiberglass with 8" wide gunnels. And 34 years old.

Sorry, I meant to say x2 to your quote there GPS photo taking distracted me the question on type of boat was directed to the op makes a difference

 

[vmuravin]

No, I did not try this I don't trust JB Weld will hold and it is not intended for this purpose. You need to reinforce the gunnels, especially if you are planning to have downriggers in the pedestals (like I had before and I had removed them.. I suggest you put riggers directly on the gunnels with a big reinforcement place from plywood/board/aluminum/steel, whatever you can find. Then DO make the holes, use a good quality stainless steel bolts and enjoy your expensive gear that is securely attached to your boat

 

[RyTek Marine]

100% do not use JB weld and defiantly use mechanical fasteners in all the holes! I personally use only Flat Socket Head bolts (allen head) and never screws unless I have no other choice. Ideally you want to have access below the gunnel and then use backer on the bottom side. In many cases you can get away with a high quality plywood such as a marine grade plywood or even Baltic Birch (I have used Baltic birch many times with great results as its MUCH stronger than normal plywood, has waterproof glue and once cut to size I spray it with breathable lacquer). The other options for backer is plastic such as HDPE. I personally do not use thin materials such as aluminum or even cutting board plastic as I believe having a good 3/4" of backer makes for a better installation. I also make the backer board as wide as possible and use silicone to glue the backer to the gunnel so the two pieces basically become one!

Its always best to do it once, and do it right!

 

[hvyhaul]

Drill it, back it and bolt it.

Peace of mind is a wonderful thing.

 

[Baitwaster]

Thanks everyone it’s a aluminum crestliner I mounted two 6 inch on the rears corners of the boat for the downriggers like everyone says I have a steel backing plates on them the sides have closed gunnels and I don’t think I can get in there to use plates. I went out and got heavy Duty stainless steel screws for the tracks and was hoping to use in combination with the jb weld to reduce the number of holes

 

[Schmick]

I use Rivnuts in my aluminum boat for all bolted items when underside is not accessible. If you move stuff, you can just leave a clean button cap screw in the inserts and they look fine.

 

[GPS]

Rivnuts are a good option I hadn't thought about.

 

[rmsteve]

Which yr/model crestliner do you have?

 

[Wave Runner]

Rivit Nuts are good but Plus Nuts have even more strength. The drawback is the price of a tool to install them.