New Bait casting Reel...Line recommendations?

I'm processing everything everyone is saying here....and appreciate it! I've just purchased a Bass Pro Shops Pro Qualifier Baitcast Reel. Not the cheapest, but not the most expensive reel either. Like anything, I realize it's just a matter of putting in the time to get to know it...and being on the water 3-4 days a week all summer long, I hope to get that experience. :) I'll have my other pole with me for backup when I get into these bird's nests everyone is referring to.
I think I may start with mono....and will try the 10 lb test to start.
One other question....the brake on the thumb, when do you use it?
 
@Consequence Free. I suggest you go to You Tube I bet there many tutorials there for using a bait caster. There is for about anything else. To describe exactly and accurately how to use one is tougher than it sounds. I'll try to answer the thumb brake hopefully. The reel has a release on it, you click t to release the spool with the thumb, once you have clicked it down you slide your thumb onto the spool and keep it there. You release your thumb to let the spool run free, just before the lure hits the water you start to gently use your thumb to stop the line, like a disc brake on a car. Sort of kinda, oh my. I don't think that's much help. Go to You Tube a picture is worth a thousand words. I hope I haven't totally confused you or you are thinking about taking the reel back. I don't know who makes BPS reels, never tried one but will be interested to find out how they are.
 
The best way to set up for the first time is to set the the brake fairly tight.Hold your rod at a 45 with a 3/8oz. weight on the line and press the release.Let the weight drop to the ground.Use your thumb to stop the spool if it's dropping too fast.When the weight hits the ground the spool should stop.When casting,use your thumb to hold the spool when you press the release.Learn to control the spool with your thumb.Don't jerk the rod or samurai swing it like the pros when casting neither.Just use smooth sidearm and overhand casts.Don't cast into the wind.When you get the hang of it you can turn the magnet control down to get farther casts.You will get some birds nests it's just part of the learning curve.If you're using mono it will take a little more time to get used to.Mono needs to get a little stretch into it before it loosens up.Don't get discouraged once you're onto you'll find baitcasters are great for pitching into weeds.I hope this helps.
 
Yea Chris great deal. I picked up a new one in Florida in at a fishing show like the Ancaster show last week. @HTHM those Chronarchs are beauties, not in my budget. I don't know what you paid but the C14's were going for over 300 USD at the same sale in Fla.

Well, I bought it from an acquaintance of mine and I paid a little more than $99 and a little less than $101 for it. He was returning a long ago favour.
 
I know there is hesitancy to use braid or heavier line when you first start. Trust me, it takes much more experience to use lighter line. I am currently using 6lb mono on a modified and tuned baitcaster for crappie. It's difficult and tricky, but when you get it down it's way more fun than flipping over a bail and trying to feather the spool when pitching to little pockets. Plus, without the line slap from a spinning reel I can outcast other outfits with fairly light setups (not too light).
Using light braid can tricky because of the tendency to knot with a backlash and wrap around the tip in windy conditions. Using light mono or flouro is tough because your first bad backlash makes you say good bye to your line when it kinks and breaks. If it survives to see another cast, the chances that it is damaged are pretty high. Say goodbye to your lure as it sails over the horizon. (WHY CAN'T I CAST THAT FAR WHEN IT'S ATTACHED LOL)
15lb mono or flouro is pretty safe and easy to use, but 30lb braid is a great all around line to start with. Remember, it's only the diameter of 12lb mono lines. It's stiff enough to stay away from knots, and will survive many backlashes before it takes damage. Learn the uni to uni connection knot and use a mono or flouro leader material that matches the diameter of your braid to start. If you are playing in the weeds, forego the leader, the fish likely won't notice.
 
Another tip I just remembered! If you get a backlash that you can't get out, as a last resort, tighten your drag as much as you can. Place your thumb on the spool and start to crank the handle. Give it 5-10 cranks with as much pressure as you can apply without engaging the drag, and gently pull out the line again. Repeat a few times. Often, the pressure mixed with the cranking action (which is the opposite direction the backlash happened in) will loosen and work itself out. This will be more effective with thicker tougher lines as light stuff will likely take more damage during the process. But as a last resort...
 
Another tip I just remembered! If you get a backlash that you can't get out, as a last resort, tighten your drag as much as you can. Place your thumb on the spool and start to crank the handle. Give it 5-10 cranks with as much pressure as you can apply without engaging the drag, and gently pull out the line again. Repeat a few times. Often, the pressure mixed with the cranking action (which is the opposite direction the backlash happened in) will loosen and work itself out. This will be more effective with thicker tougher lines as light stuff will likely take more damage during the process. But as a last resort...

I have never heard this tip. I'm going to have to try it because even after 30 years of trying to master bait casters I know 100% I will get more. But using a bait caster for certain conditions it worth the trouble they can be. I have seen the pro's get carbunklements.
 
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