Mounting kicker to inboard

[lazywave]

With the expected gas prices I’m thinking about mounting a kicker to my boat. It’s an inboard so I know I can’t use a steering arm for it. The swim platform is predrilled and comes with a bracket. Just wondering if anyone has done this and how steering would work. If I could steer with my main motor or if id have to get a separate steering cable

 

[Minnownite]

I have NOT done this but last year with my outboard I did exactly that. Kept my kicker straight and was steering with my main motor. Worked well. Just couldn't turn over sharp fast.

 

[lazywave]

I have NOT done this but last year with my outboard I did exactly that. Kept my kicker straight and was steering with my main motor. Worked well. Just couldn't turn over sharp fast.

Thanks for the reply. How was it controlling the boat in moderate waves. Does it still handle find or were you getting thrown around too much and had to resort back to the main motor when it got rougher?

 

[blackeyes]

Sorry for long the read but on a previous boat I made my own steering arm with some 1/2" threaded rod, 2 air compression fittings sets, 2 ball joint type fittings, 2 nuts and a piece of pex plastic water pipe. Took the threaded rod, cut it to a required length between engines when engines were in the drive position. Slid a piece of pex plastic pipe over it to cover threads before installing the ball joints on each end of the threaded rod. Ball joints purchased off Amazon. Fasten other end of the ball joints to the female halves of the air compression fittings. Use 2 - 2" pieces of threaded rod to screw to the 2 male halves of the air compression fittings. Install a nut on the other end of the 2 -2" pieces of threaded rod. Had to have a local welding shop weld the nuts onto 2 steel plates 1/4" thick approx. 3" x 4". Drilled holes into the plates so it could be attached to the fin just above the prop on the main engine out drive and the kicker motor. Used the air compression fittings so I could remove the bar between engines if I needed to. Used the ball joint to have the flexibility when engines were raised and lowered. Painted all metal with some black trem clad paint. Use lok-tite on all thread connections. Air fittings and ball joints had 1/2" male or female threaded ends as required. Actually worked really well. Cost me about $50.00 for materials and welding.

 

[lazywave]

@blackeyes was this for an inboard or an outboard. But that’s for the explanation I think I understand what you mean. Also, would you remove the bar when traveling out to your fishing grounds so that you could have your kicker out of the water? Just wondering how this would work for driving out to the fishing grounds before I start trolling and then hooking it up out there on the water

 

[rockin-steelhead]

Lots of ideas if you google it and you might be able to find a way that will work best for you.

 

[blackeyes]

This was from a 10 hp kicker to an I/O. I always left the bar on till I needed to take the kicker off to use on my 14' tinny when I went on holidays to a northern lake. The ball joints allowed me to raise the kicker for the trip out to where I would start trolling

 

[Minnownite]

Thanks for the reply. How was it controlling the boat in moderate waves. Does it still handle find or were you getting thrown around too much and had to resort back to the main motor when it got rougher?

I was never out when it was crazy but it handled decent. Best way to know is to try. If it don't work like you want fab something up! Never once did I need to use my main motor. If I needed to turn sharp I turned my kicker with my main until I was clear of the obstical and turned straight again.

 

[Dunnster]

Used a 9.9 kicker on my 23ft crestliner left it straight and steered with the outdrive. Worked fine till the waves got to about 3 ft. Then had to fire up main or just run with the wind.