First trip 2016

Irish1983

Well-Known Member
well guy I went out today for the first run of 2016 not so good idled out of marina then when I tried to go full out it wouldn't. Thinking fouled plugs from fogging engine in the fall. Anyone have a thought on this issue. Btw hovers is under heavy construction it's gonna be a nice spot when finished.
 
Could check fuel line, fuel filter?
When you say it wouldn't go full throttle do you mean it was running fine just doesn't have the balls it should
Or do you mean it back fired and stalled or choked up and stalled out?
 
I would be checking the fuel system. If you have a water /fuel separator then change that out. Are you working on last years gas? If so you may need to put some octane boost into it or just drain the tank and re-fill. If you are using last years gas then you may have condensation from over winter storage. Just some thoughts.
 
My motor did the same thing when first fired it up this year! I topped up the tank and put seafoam in it and cleared right up! hope this helps
 
this sounds too simple but it happened to me when the camp operator refueled my boat for my 50 yammy he tightened the vent valve and i didn,t know and ran about 5 miles with only half power before I remembered to check it , opened the valve and all was well
 
I always use a product called K100 S+ which totally eliminates water in the fuel as it actually it makes water burn among other things. It's available at CTC and has always eliminated any fuel problems that pop up at season start-up for me. I used to use Sea Foam but found the K100 much superior for curing bad fuel problems.

Hope this isn't your problem but is your Yamaha 4-stroke fuel injected? If so your problem could be the VST filter (Vapor Separator Tank) which are notorious for plugging on Yamahas especially when bad fuel is involved. Ethanol currently 10-15% blended into our Canadian fuel is also a culprit in fouling these VST filters. Fouled VST filters cause the problem you are describing exactly. I would try the K100 first as the injectors could also be fouled. The VST filter change out is expensive when done at the dealer because the filter alone is in the neighborhood of $70 let alone the labour involved. You can Google it as there's lots of information on this problem in Yamaha EFI outboards. In some cases it can be cleaned but usually needs to be changed. Here's a video how to change it, it's for a F115 Yamaha but the procedure is the same.


But try this first, hopefully that's all that's needed. :)
upload_2016-4-19_7-42-3.png
  • K100 S+ 2 Year Gas & Fuel Stabilizer is a 2 year fuel stabilizer that provides a +2 point octane boost
  • Prevents problems with all Ethanol Blends
  • Stabilizer eliminates water from the gas tank and fuel system reversing or preventing phase separation
  • Revitalizes old fuel
  • Encapsulates water for a complete burn eliminating ethanol phase separation
  • Increase Power and Performance
  • Cleans fuel injectors and carburetors
 
Hopefully you didn't fog and just sprayed oil through the spark plugs holes? Fogging is for 2-strokes through the intake while engine running, no valves to hydrolock. 4-strokes just need lube applied to cyl's through the spark plugs holes. Start with replacing plugs, check your fuel/air vent.
 
Hopefully you didn't fog and just sprayed oil through the spark plugs holes? Fogging is for 2-strokes through the intake while engine running, no valves to hydrolock. 4-strokes just need lube applied to cyl's through the spark plugs holes. Start with replacing plugs, check your fuel/air vent.

Hmmm... not aware of any marine outboard company that doesn't recommend fogging your engine for storage. I have fogged every engine with storage seal on anything I have owned for at least 40 years. Yamaha recommends it as well for both 2-stroke and 4-stroke. I know you can definitely cause hydrolock by spraying too much oil through the spark plug holes into the cylinders then cranking them over so you need to be careful.

Yamaha Stor-Rite Engine Fogging Oil


http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/Winterize_V1_3-FINAL.pdf
 
Blue Spruce is correct in that for a Four Stroke engine you should not fog the engine thru the intake manifold. I was told by a couple of mechanics that by fogging thru the intake you could foul the fuel injectors. If this happened then not sure what needs to happen as the fogging oil will form a "skin" over all the manifold and parts within including the injectors. If they are fouled then works fine at idle and mid throttle but full out... it will just sputter. I was told when I first did my 225 yammy that never fully fog thru the intake but to take each individual plug out, spray fogging oil in each cylinder then turn over a couple of times to ensure well coverage, then button up till spring. Done this ever since new... never had an issue.
 
@JustForUs... for fuel injected engines there's some debate about fogging. Some say through the intake, some say put the fogging oil with stabilizer and fresh gas in a small portable tank running it into the motor that way and some do it through the spark plug holes. All say it works for them so each to his own I guess but this Tech on boats.com fogs EFI outboard motors this way.

 
I fogged thought the spark plug holes didn't spray much in them. I'm gonna try and change the plugs think oil might have got on the plugs or something. It's not bad gas I used Yamaha recommended fuel conditioner stabilizer from the dealer.
 
Don't know how to post like you wave Runner but here's a video that shows not to spray into the intake...

so each their own but I'd rather not spray into an intake.
 
My rig is a 99... 99 90hp Johnson 2 stroke and a 03 8hp Johnson 4stroke... All I do on my last trip out is put Klotz fuel stabilizer and octane boost in the main tank and run it threw both motors... Top up the tank when I get home and put it away... Knock on wood have never had a issue... My boat sits from after Labour Day Weekend till Easter weekend... I run both motors on the muffs/garden hose before the first trip out... To each there own...
 
@JustForUs... Obviously you missed the part before he sprays the fogging oil into the spark plug holes where he sprays it directly into the air intake while the engine is running. That's exactly the way the Tech in the video I put up describes how to do it properly, through the air intake as well as through the spark plug holes.

However, there is conflicting views on this concerning EFI engines. Who's right? The real authoritive answer on the subject comes from the Yamaha service manual for storage of 2 months or more applying to both carburetor and EFI engines which says:
* Run engine at fast idle for 10-15 minuets in neutral position while supplying fresh water.
* Just prior to turning off engine, quickly spray Yamaha Stor-Rite Engine Fogging Oil (part no. LUB-STRRT-1200) alternately into each carburetor/each intake manifold. When done properly the engine will smoke excessively and almost stall.


That's the way I've done it for 40 years without a single issue not just my outboards but my riding and push mowers, snowblower, power washer, and grass trimmer you name it. Online some say the problem isn't from spraying fogging oil through the intake it's spraying the wrong stuff. Some people use 2 stroke oil or Marvel etc. instead of using the proper storage seal or fogging oil specifically designed for this purpose. Others say don't fog at all which I totally disagree with. But for conscience sake there's nothing wrong with just spaying it through the spark plug holes as your doing as long as you crank the engine over a few times before reinstalling the spark plugs. Otherwise you can get hydrolock damage if too much oil is in the cylinders during compression. It's your motor so it's whatever you are more comfortable with. :)
 
@JustForUs... Obviously you missed the part before he sprays the fogging oil into the spark plug holes where he sprays it directly into the air intake while the engine is running. That's exactly the way the Tech in the video I put up describes how to do it properly, through the air intake as well as through the spark plug holes.

However, there is conflicting views on this concerning EFI engines. Who's right? The real authoritive answer on the subject comes from the Yamaha service manual for storage of 2 months or more applying to both carburetor and EFI engines which says:
* Run engine at fast idle for 10-15 minuets in neutral position while supplying fresh water.
* Just prior to turning off engine, quickly spray Yamaha Stor-Rite Engine Fogging Oil (part no. LUB-STRRT-1200) alternately into each carburetor/each intake manifold. When done properly the engine will smoke excessively and almost stall.


That's the way I've done it for 40 years without a single issue not just my outboards but my riding and push mowers, snowblower, power washer, and grass trimmer you name it. Online some say the problem isn't from spraying fogging oil through the intake it's spraying the wrong stuff. Some people use 2 stroke oil or Marvel etc. instead of using the proper storage seal or fogging oil specifically designed for this purpose. Others say don't fog at all which I totally disagree with. But for conscience sake there's nothing wrong with just spaying it through the spark plug holes as your doing as long as you crank the engine over a few times before reinstalling the spark plugs. Otherwise you can get hydrolock damage if too much oil is in the cylinders during compression. It's your motor so it's whatever you are more comfortable with. :)

I don't really have much of an opinion on this subject.
But I would have to say that you have given a very compelling argument.
And I agree with the statement about consulting the service manual.
No one knows the engine better than the people who built the darn thing!
 
my johnson did this last year, i took it in and my waterpump wasnt running strong enough, so when i gave it gas it would just kickdown and bog along. make sure that waterpump is really spitting out a strong stream, could be your waterpump gettn old..
 
I have a 2 stroke 115HP Mariner and matching 15HP kicker. Every spring I fire it up on the ear muffs and let it run until all the fogging spray is out. Then every year no exceptions:
1) New plugs ($40.00)
2) New fuel filters ($30.00)
3) Sea Foam in each tank ($5.00)
4) Tighten every nut bolt and fastener I can from bow to transom, I actually found one of the bolts holding the 115 on loose the other day, weird. (no charge)
5) lube all moving parts and a shot of grease in all nipples including bearing buddy's on trailer ($1.00 of grease)
6) check tire pressure and inspect springs etc. and tighten all trailer nuts bolts.(NC)

Forgot, all battery connections cleaned to bare metal before battery goes in and a shot of electronic spray on all electrical connections. ($1.00)

Bottom end lube fluid changed during winterization. ($20.00)

Then I don't worry about a thing the rest of the year and haven't had engine problems ever on 2 21 yr old motors for under $100.00 and a few hours of time.
 
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Advertising is what keeps Channel 6-8 on the air. To this end, please take a moment to disable your AdBlocker. If you would prefer an ad-free experience, but would still like to help support site operations, please consider making a donation.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks