Bunk Guides??

tow-mo

Well-Known Member
Just wondering if anyone knows where you can purchase just the carpeted/wood bunk guides for a shorelander trailer?? I have called around and the only option so far is buy the kit with everything in it, seems like a waste when all I need is the one part. Thx for any info.
 
Make sure you staple the carpet on the UNDERSIDE of the bunks, your hull's finish will thank you. Another option for fasteners would be porcelain coated deck screws with cup washers or hot dipped galvanized roofing nails.
 
marina shores as the carpet , looking at it last week for my trailer.
If you do staple it besure to use stainless staples
 
I redid my bunks and guides 2 years ago. Use pressure treated 2x4's, marine or good outdoor carpet, stainless staples and I also glue the carpet with an outdoor carpet glue. Well worth the effort as the carpet will never come loose and is far better than any you can buy already made up.
 
I had my 4 Boat Bunk`s all replaced last Fall at Marina Shores,where I originally bought the Boat & Boat Trailer.They did an Excellent Job replacing my Boat Trailer Bunk`s.But I still can`t believe to this day that the company that sells these Boat Trailer`s to Marina Shores aren`t using pressure treated lumber on their Trailer Bunk`s!!!! The Boat Trailer was only 7 year`s old!!!! I guess if you built them too well,there won`t be too many Sale`s for Boat Trailer`s!!!! Needless to say,I will not be buying another Boat Trailer from this Company that builts them!!!! So,who is the loser now!!!! Thank`s for reading my RANT!!!!
 
The chemicals used in pressure treated wood will attack an aluminum hull. They do not work well together. Side bunks wouldn't matter much but the bottom bunks that the boats sits on would be the issue. I just redid 2 bunks on a small trailer and proctor marine told me DO NOT use PT wood. They recommended replacing them more often and using normal wood. Carpet is $20 and wood is less than $10
I'm no pro by any means I'm just passing on what proctor told me.
 
The chemicals used in pressure treated wood will attack an aluminum hull. They do not work well together. Side bunks wouldn't matter much but the bottom bunks that the boats sits on would be the issue. I just redid 2 bunks on a small trailer and proctor marine told me DO NOT use PT wood. They recommended replacing them more often and using normal wood. Carpet is $20 and wood is less than $10
I'm no pro by any means I'm just passing on what proctor told me.
WOW!! I didn`t know that Pinchel.It makes me now wonder why the mechanic at Marina Shores used PT wood instead of the normal wood.You would think that the marine carpet that they put over the PT wood,would protect the Aluminum Hull.I will have to ask some question`s,the next time I go to Marina Shores.Thanks for now,it is very much appreciated. Tight Lines!
 
True storey PT wood and aluminum not mixing well together. When building decks with PT you have to watch what type of screws or nails you are using.
 
True storey PT wood and aluminum not mixing well together. When building decks with PT you have to watch what type of screws or nails you are using.
Any Idea on how long it would take for the Aluminum Hull of a Lund Boat to break down? Just curious.
 
True storey PT wood and aluminum not mixing well together. When building decks with PT you have to watch what type of screws or nails you are using.

First I've heard that as well. I replaced the bottom bunks and side rails as well as the side platforms with PT 7 years ago. I would think as long as there is carpeting between the 2 you should be fine. I think all in with changing all the hardware in stainless I had around 100 bucks in the project, probably less. I did use stainless staples.
 
Another option is to use a phenolic, or trex to put it another way. Be careful though it is slippery.
 
I believe the problem arises when the boat sits on the bunks after coming out of the water. It takes along time for the carpet and wood to dry out.
 
I believe the problem arises when the boat sits on the bunks after coming out of the water. It takes along time for the carpet and wood to dry out.
A very Good Point Pinchel!! I never thought about that,and it would make it a lot better if the Bunks were dry before storage before Winter. Good to Know!
 
One way to avoid this would be the use of the bunk slides they sell. It would only mean boat to plastic contact. It would also allow carpet and wood to dry quicker.
 
When you glue the carpet on with outdoor carpet glue it is completely sealed against any galvanic reaction to aluminum. It also seals the PT wood from absorbing any water. The only problem I've ever seen with aluminum boats having a reaction has been with PT plywood flooring being directly screwed or bolted to aluminum ribbing. The real cause I believe is not so much the PT flooring but rather the steel screws or bolts interacting with the aluminum because steel and aluminum are not compatible. Just ask anyone who's tried to get steel spark plugs out of an aluminum engine block after 180,000 km, they almost weld themselves together.
 
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