Bow Mount woes

HTHM

Well-Known Member
R.O.C. (Radio Operator's Certificate)
So, there I was, minding my own business installing the new XI5 Motor guide that I just bought, when I found out a minn kota quick connect mount does not fit my new motor.
The solution was to have the plate that attaches to the motor and slides into the deck bracket cut back about 1" in the center.
Just a handy tip for those who may be making the same mistake in the future.
I also found about 12 different mounting holes under the old motor that needed filling. Made up a sawdust and resin peanut butter and took care of that toot sweet. The original owner did not appear to have the most advanced layout skills.
My NMEA network comes tomorrow. A whole lotta head scratching to follow.
 

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... all those holes :rolleyes: Some people don't seem to mind and just keep drilling more. I have some annoying holes in my dashboard that a fishhawk or something could cover :p
 
@HTHM the NMEA network shouldn't be that difficult.

I didn't start mine from scratch but adding the new VHS radio was a no brainer.

Everything made sense the way it had been put together and as long as all the parts cables and terminators are present, mapping it out and building it should be without hair pulling.or forehead banging. 🌻
 
I switched to motorguide last year. My remote was acting up and turns out it was not a unique case. I d suggest to carry a set of extra AAA and a small philps head for the first few trips. My remote was completely draining batteries in 2 wks even if not in use. The design is not the best - you have to unscrew the remote to change them. Mid season I installed nmea and was able to control the motor from HDS. I replaced the remote via warranty offseason, hopefully the new one is not defective. I liked minnkota much more, but the ability to click on a fish in a sidescan window and say go to the cursor or drawing a trolling path and following it is well worth the headache.
 
I'm covering the bow section with a diamond plate rubber sheet, 3/16 thick. Got it at Princess auto, going to glue it down with contact cement after roughing the gelcoat with 120 of course.
 
I switched to motorguide last year. My remote was acting up and turns out it was not a unique case. I d suggest to carry a set of extra AAA and a small philps head for the first few trips. My remote was completely draining batteries in 2 wks even if not in use. The design is not the best - you have to unscrew the remote to change them. Mid season I installed nmea and was able to control the motor from HDS. I replaced the remote via warranty offseason, hopefully the new one is not defective. I liked minnkota much more, but the ability to click on a fish in a sidescan window and say go to the cursor or drawing a trolling path and following it is well worth the headache.
Thanks for the heads up on the remote. I'm most looking forward to those features you outlined.
 
Well, I finally got the ^$)*(^$#(*##$_#^ motor mounted, one thing for sure, it will not be stolen. It ended up be a permanent mount on a sliding plate. My careful layout and cutting did not allow for the spacing between the bow surface and the lip of the motor. Ended up having to loosen the bolts to have the plate slip in the slot. Now that they are tightened the motor cannot be dismounted unless it is unbolted from the carrier. Ill post pictures later.
 
So as promised pictures of the, yet uncompleted job.
20230401_143726[1].jpg

This is the part that upsets me, I thought that all I needed to have the Lowrance talk to the XI5 was a NMEA network. Turns out I had to also have a gateway from the trolling motor to the network. $250 later, and another delay due to shipping I hope to have this done Monday.
The offending connection:

20230401_143738[1].jpg



20230401_143758[1].jpg

I'm happy to say that the install is completely inboard, so I hope no dock rash issues.

20230401_143810[1].jpg

BTW the checker plate rubber flooring was purchased at Princess Auto. It works quite well.
 
The $200 nmea motorguide part still beats the minn kota - humminbird ipilot link, that is over 1 k . I also had to buy an extra nmea drop cable b/c the one in the kit was too short- like 2 ft, later I added one more T and used it to connect a second hds unit.
 
@Centerspin I have two HDS units, networked together. Do I have to have a NMEA cable to each one?
 
Its a matter of adding 1 T and 1cable. I used a long cable as a bone to the bow and added 2 ts and a terminator. T t goes to xi5 and 1 has a drop cable when I want to move a unit to the bow. One more pita with nmea it constantly sucks a little power so its nice to have an on off. I didnt bother, I have it powered from a house battery with hdss and downriggers. That whole circuit is on a 50 amp switchable fuse that i use as a kill switch
 
Thanks for the switch tip.
Should I tie the VHF into the network as well, it is getting position info from the other NMEA 0183 feed right now.
 
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Thanks for the switch tip.
Should I tie the VHF into the network as well, it is getting position info from the other NMEA 0183 feed right now.
Hi HTHM, no idea, i think nmea 183 is not compatible with nmea 2000 but could be wrong
 
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I've used aluminum or stainless plates to cover holes like that even on the dash board. Looks pretty good when done.
Where’d you get them (the plates) if you don’t mind me asking? Thanks.
 
Wired everything up, and......It worked!
Cheer Applause GIF by Peanuts

Now to get my brake pads and I can launch on Saturday I hope.
 
Where’d you get them (the plates) if you don’t mind me asking? Thanks.
You can get plates cut to size at metal supermarkets in London, You may need to do some filing to smooth over the edges
 
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