Transducer Mount

ferg

Well-Known Member
What is the preferred epoxy most use to mount a poly transducer mount to the transom. I would rather not drill into the hull. I've read 3M 5200 will not hold over time.
 
What is the preferred epoxy most use to mount a poly transducer mount to the transom. I would rather not drill into the hull. I've read 3M 5200 will not hold over time.
Take a look on utube Stern Saver is the name of the product. This is a kit.
 
Just mount a transducer mount plate. It will be the last holes in your transom you'll ever make. If your boat is aluminum and if you can access inside the hull you can use stainless bolts with stainless nylock nuts and it will never leak, never fall off.
 
It is a fiberglass boat. I purchased a poly mounting plate from Angling Outfitters. The staff recommended using epoxy to secure it to the hull but didn't say which brand is best. Has anyone used Marine JB Weld for this purpose?
 
It is a fiberglass boat. I purchased a poly mounting plate from Angling Outfitters. The staff recommended using epoxy to secure it to the hull but didn't say which brand is best. Has anyone used Marine JB Weld for this purpose?
I used marine grade epoxy on my aluminum boat
No screws or bolts needed to mount the block
And if you want to change something or add on lots off room on the block to do so and no holes in the boat
 
all transducers come with a mounting bracket...
I mounted 2 transducers to my fibreglass hull 34 years ago..with stainless steel screws and washers
the drain housing and the speedometer pickup tube are also screwed to the bottom of the transom
the mounts last a lifetime..
 
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I mounted one with 3M 5200 on a Lund circa 2002ish. I then sold that boat to a buddy of mine and it’s still on there today.
 
@RyTek Marine ... willing to provide an opinion here or are you busy up on Squinty?
haha...have not been down yet! Just crazy busy with my full time business and my part-time business that should be my full time business ;) 100% no mater if its a glass haul or an aluminum hull defiantly make use of an auxiliary and sacrificial mounting board!!! A mounting board has multiple advantages over just a piece of plastic to mount a transducer too!
#1 is it gives you a sacrificial board to screw your transducers too allowing you to make as many adjustments as you want and move screw locations without putting anymore holes in your hull!!!!! Many people just throw a transducer on a boat and "hope" it does well and then there are others like my self and many of my customers that spend 2k+ on a graph and want the very best results and are constantly fine tuning the setup to achieve the best results possible especially when when it comes to marking fish at 50-60mph and realizing you don't need to go to 60' when the schools are sitting in 25' and everyone is blowing past them!!!!!
#2 is that many don't realize that a transducer board (especially the 1" thick ones I make) get the transducer into cleaner water coming off the back of the boat, which means MUCH better sonar readings! I always recommend mounting the board 1/2" to 3/4" off the bottom of the haul so that the board its self does not get into the water stream!
#3 just comes back to mounting again...a transducer board gives more bite for transducer screws than an aluminum haul or glass haul and especially with the now common HUGE structure scan transducers...having 3/4" to 1" of screw engagement is a good thing!!!!

As far as mounting goes...no mater the haul type I 100% recommend mechanically fastening the board to the haul in combination with a high quality sealant such as 5200 or a high quality marine silicone!!! My boards actually come with a built in gasket area on the back side that promotes sealing and prevents massive amounts of squeeze out! I personally always use mechanical fasteners due to the reason I just don't trust a heavy duty mounting board and a transducer or two that are a couple pounds a piece being held on by just adhesive alone! Many of my customers have 300-1000+ dollar transducers hanging off their hauls and having the board fly off at 50mph wouldn't be a good thing!!!!

Hope that helps.


My website is all in American dollars and not meant for Canadian sales so if anyone is interested in any of my products please just call me at 519-778-5441 and I can quickly give you Canadian pricing and details!

Ryan
 
@RyTek Marine , I'm intrigued by your comment about marking fish at high speed. Back in the dark ages, when I was running my shiney new Lowrance LMS 35Oa and heading out to the lighthouse, I never felt what I was marking when on plane could be relied upon to be fish. We would hit a certain depth or a waypoint and set up and then started to take the sonar fish readings more seriously. (I often thought the FishID back then was a random number generator put there to keep me interested.) I think many here may still operate this way, not fully realizing the power of the new tech. If we knew how to properly mount and operate our sonar and could depend on them to be true at high speed, well, ...

Seth Meyers Lol GIF by Late Night with Seth Meyers


Please tell us more on how to do it!
 
@RyTek Marine Maybe you can suggest something for me for this. My Helix 9 DI doesn't show anything on the port side unless I tilt my engine up significantly. Obviously the engine is blocking it. Is there anything that can be done?
 
Hope that helps.


My website is all in American dollars and not meant for Canadian sales so if anyone is interested in any of my products please just call me at 519-778-5441 and I can quickly give you Canadian pricing and details!

Ryan
WOW where were you when I was setting up my boat in the spring, I bought some transducer mounting boards from a Quebec online retailer... cost me over $100 for 2 large ones that are about the size of your small....
Very fair pricing you have.
 
WOW where were you when I was setting up my boat in the spring, I bought some transducer mounting boards from a Quebec online retailer... cost me over $100 for 2 large ones that are about the size of your small....
Very fair pricing you have.
Yea I was thinking the same thing. I am sad the dealer made holes in my new boat for the transducer mount. Next time I make any changes it will be on one of those mounting boards.

@RyTek Marine a couple more questions. What would you suggest to fill existing holes in the fiberglass transom? I was thinking fill with JB Weld, screw in a long stainless screw, hacksaw off the head and any protruding screw, cover whats left with JB weld.

Also ever seen a mounting board fail on a quick boat? I push 60mph so it needs to be on there strong.
 
@RyTek Marine Maybe you can suggest something for me for this. My Helix 9 DI doesn't show anything on the port side unless I tilt my engine up significantly. Obviously the engine is blocking it. Is there anything that can be done?

What kind of boat is it? That is a major issue with a lot of boats and unfortunately unless you have a boat with a step and can mount the transducer further under the boat or by reversing one of my brackets...lifting the motor is the only real solution! It is caused because the beam angle of the side scan is basically using the whole water column and anything on the boat thats in the way is going to be interrupting the beam!
 
Yea I was thinking the same thing. I am sad the dealer made holes in my new boat for the transducer mount. Next time I make any changes it will be on one of those mounting boards.

@RyTek Marine a couple more questions. What would you suggest to fill existing holes in the fiberglass transom? I was thinking fill with JB Weld, screw in a long stainless screw, hacksaw off the head and any protruding screw, cover whats left with JB weld.

Also ever seen a mounting board fail on a quick boat? I push 60mph so it needs to be on there strong.

I personally fill with the same high quality marine silicone or 5200 and insert a screw with a nice size pan head back into the hole. Let sit for a little bit before wiping off the squeeze out!

As far as the board falling off...That is exactly why I use a combination of both an adhesive and mechanical fasteners! I supply my customers that buy my boards 1.5" x #12 stainless screws!!!
 
Seth Meyers Lol GIF by Late Night with Seth Meyers


Please tell us more on how to do it!
Proper transducer placement and fine tuning is key! And having a decent graph to begin with sure does help! so many guys or worse yet the marine they bought their boat from just throw their transducers on the boat and say go!!! unfortunately people struggle and blame the MFG of the graph for it not doing what they want! Again, fine tuning is KEY and I will adjust and tune until they beat my expectations! I only have a few pictures and screen shots on this laptop but here is my current setup and some screen shots from last December on Quinte when I caught my PB walleye
 

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@RyTek Marine Is that my imagination or is your board a parallelogram and not a rectangle to visually look better on the back of the boat?

One of my personal irks is that boards look out of place because they don't match the angles of the boat.
 
@RyTek Marine interesting you are using Med Chirp, while there are so many so-called "pros" putting YouTube videos and teaching at seminars suggesting that for shallow water <100' High Chirp is the go to... but I find I get much better results with Medium. Your thoughts?
Also, what MFD are you using and can you talk about the transducers you have mounted.
If you needed to replace your MFD, what would you get?
 
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